Category: Heating hub

Hearing a loud buzzing noise every time your boiler kicks in can be alarming. Many homeowners in Bordon and nearby areas such as Alton, Liphook and Petersfield experience this issue, often linked to transformer strain or ignition problems. In this guide, we explain what causes that buzzing sound, how you can troubleshoot it safely, and when to contact a professional Gas Safe engineer.

Understanding the Buzz: Transformer Strain vs Ignition Issues

The two main culprits behind a buzzing boiler are:

• Transformer Strain: The transformer steps down mains voltage to power components like the gas valve and ignition electrodes. When the transformer is under strain, it can emit a loud, continuous buzz.
• Ignition System Stress: Faulty spark electrodes or a weakened ignition module may struggle to create a consistent spark, causing the circuit to draw extra power and buzz.

These issues are common in boilers across the GU35 postcode area, especially in older models that haven’t had a recent boiler servicing or upgrade.

Key Signs That Transformer Strain Is the Problem

• Continuous buzzing lasting more than a few seconds after ignition.
• The noise seems to come from the transformer housing behind the boiler casing.
• Boiler cycles rapidly on and off, indicating voltage irregularities.
• Flickering pilot light (in older boilers) or inconsistent flame pattern.

When Ignition Components Cause the Buzz

• Sporadic clicking or buzzing before the boiler lights.
• Repeated ignition attempts with no successful flame—leading to a hum as the system resets.
• Error codes on modern boilers pointing to ignition failure.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting for Bordon Residents

Before calling for boiler repair, you can carry out these basic checks safely:

• Switch Off and Inspect: Turn off power at the isolator switch, remove the boiler casing, and look for loose wires or burnt marks around the transformer.
• Tighten Connections: Gently tighten any unsecured terminal screws on the transformer and ignition module. Loose contacts can create buzzing when current flows.
• Clean Electrodes: For systems with spark ignition, a light rub with fine abrasive paper can remove deposits affecting the spark quality.
• Reset the Boiler: Once everything is checked, restore power and reset the boiler according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

If the buzzing persists after these steps, you may need a component replacement or deeper diagnosis by a Gas Safe engineer.

Preventative Measures to Avoid Heating Breakdowns

Regular maintenance is the best way to prevent nuisance noises and unexpected heating failures:

• Schedule an annual boiler servicing to inspect transformers, ignition modules and controls.
• Consider a boiler cover plan to protect against costly parts and labour for components like transformers and ignition electrodes.
• Upgrade older boilers to modern, energy-efficient condensing models. A new boiler installation can eliminate age-related electrical issues and improve reliability.

Why You Shouldn’t Ignore a Buzzing Boiler

Ignoring unusual noises can lead to:

• Complete heating breakdown during the coldest months, leaving homes in Haslemere or Farnham without warmth.
• Increased energy bills as components work inefficiently under strain.
• Potential safety risks if electrical faults develop into shorts or failures.

When to Call a Professional Gas Safe Engineer

If your troubleshooting steps don’t stop the buzzing, contact a qualified engineer. You should always call a professional when:

• There are signs of burning around electrical components.
• The boiler displays repeated fault codes or locks out.
• You’re unsure about handling internal boiler parts.

Our team covers Bordon, Liss, Grayshott and Hindhead, providing fast, reliable repairs, emergency callouts and advice.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is a buzzing boiler safe to operate?

A: A brief buzz on ignition is normal, but a loud, continuous noise indicates strain or an electrical fault. Switch off and investigate or call a Gas Safe engineer.

Q: Can I replace the transformer or ignition module myself?

A: Only qualified engineers should work on these components. Incorrect installation can damage the boiler or pose safety risks.

Q: How often should I have my boiler serviced?

A: We recommend annual servicing to keep your boiler running smoothly and catch issues early.

Q: When is it time for a new boiler installation?

A: If your boiler is over 10–12 years old, needs frequent repairs, or is inefficient, consider upgrading to a modern condensing model.

If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

If your boiler has started making banging, rumbling or whistling noises, you are not alone. Many homeowners in Petersfield and nearby areas such as Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton and Farnham experience these symptoms, especially as boilers age or when heating systems haven’t been serviced recently. While these sounds can be unsettling, they don’t always mean a major fault — but they do deserve attention.

Understanding the causes of boiler kettling noise

The term ‘kettling’ describes a sound similar to a kettle boiling. When it happens inside a boiler, it usually indicates restricted water flow or overheating within the heat exchanger. Kettling is one of the most common reasons boilers begin making unusual noises, and understanding the cause helps you decide whether a quick check or a professional visit is needed.

Quick checks you can do now

Before assuming the worst, there are a few simple, safe things you can check at home. These won’t fix deeper problems, but they can help rule out basic issues and provide clues.

• Check the boiler pressure gauge (should typically be around 1–1.5 bar when cold).
• Make sure radiators are turned on and the heating controls are calling for heat.
• Listen for noises only when heating, only when hot water runs, or both.
• Check for cold spots on radiators that may suggest sludge.

If anything looks significantly out of the ordinary, or if noises are loud and persistent, it is worth getting a qualified Gas Safe engineer to investigate.

Why boilers start kettling or banging

There are several reasons your boiler may be making kettling, banging, rumbling or gurgling noises. Below are the most common causes.

• Limescale build-up: Areas such as Petersfield, Bordon and GU35 postcodes often experience hard water. Over time, minerals settle inside the heat exchanger, restricting water flow and causing boiling hotspots.
• Sludge in the system: Rust and debris collect inside radiators and pipes. This sludge slows flow and traps heat, contributing to kettling and banging.
• Air in the system: Air pockets can lead to gurgling noises and uneven heating.
• Pump issues: A failing or incorrectly set pump may not circulate water effectively, causing overheating.
• Low system pressure: Without the right pressure, water struggles to circulate, leading to temperature imbalances and noise.
• Faulty thermostat or sensor: If water overheats because the boiler is not reading temperatures accurately, kettling is more likely.

How kettling affects your boiler

A boiler that is allowed to continue kettling for long periods may experience reduced efficiency, higher energy bills and unnecessary strain on the heat exchanger. While kettling does not mean your boiler is unsafe by default, it is a sign that something inside the system needs attention. In areas such as Liphook, Alton and Farnham, where older heating systems are common, kettling is frequently an early symptom of circulation problems.

Homeowner checklist before calling an engineer

This quick checklist can help you narrow down the cause:

• Is the boiler pressure between 1 and 1.5 bar when cold?
• Do radiators heat evenly from top to bottom?
• Are any radiators cold at the bottom, suggesting sludge?
• Do noises happen only with heating, only with hot water, or both?
• Has the boiler been serviced within the last 12 months?
• Have you recently topped up pressure or drained radiators?

The more symptoms you identify, the easier it is to understand whether you are dealing with a simple circulation or pressure issue or something more complex.

Troubleshooting steps you can safely attempt

There are a few simple steps homeowners can try without tools or technical skill:

• Bleed radiators: If radiators have cold tops but warm bottoms, trapped air may be the cause.
• Check and adjust pressure: If pressure is low, topping up via the filling loop may reduce noise. Always stop if unsure.
• Reset the boiler: A basic reboot can sometimes clear control issues.
• Turn down the flow temperature: If the boiler is set very high, lowering it slightly may reduce kettling.

These steps are safe for most homeowners, but if the noise continues or worsens, the cause is likely inside the boiler and requires a professional.

When to call a Gas Safe engineer

If you live in Petersfield, Bordon, GU35, GU34 or GU9 areas and your boiler is still making loud banging or kettling noises after basic checks, it is time for a Gas Safe registered engineer to inspect the system. They may recommend:

• A system flush to remove sludge.
• Descaling the heat exchanger.
• Replacing a failing pump.
• Rebalancing the heating system.
• Replacing worn internal components.
• Fitting a magnetic filter to prevent future sludge build-up.

Tackling the root cause early usually restores quiet operation and protects the boiler from unnecessary wear.

Preventing future boiler kettling and banging

Once your boiler is back to running smoothly, a few simple habits can help prevent kettling from returning:

• Arrange an annual boiler service.
• Use magnetic filters and inhibitors to keep water clean.
• Check system pressure every few months.
• Have radiators flushed or cleaned when needed.
• Keep flow temperatures moderate where possible.

These steps can significantly reduce wear, especially in older properties around Petersfield and surrounding villages.

Next steps: If your boiler is still making loud kettling or banging noises, book a professional inspection today at https://www.embassygas.com/book

Limescale is one of the most common and most preventable causes of reduced performance in a combi boiler. Hard water deposits slowly collect inside the plate heat exchanger, pipes and fittings, restricting flow and forcing the boiler to work harder than it should. If left untreated, this can eventually lead to breakdowns, expensive repairs or premature boiler replacement. For homeowners in Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and the wider GU35, GU34 and GU9 areas, understanding how limescale forms and how to deal with it can save both money and stress.

What causes combi boiler limescale buildup?

Limescale forms when hard water is heated. The calcium and magnesium minerals naturally found in the water supply turn into a solid chalky deposit as the water temperature rises. In a combi boiler, this mainly affects the domestic hot water plate heat exchanger, where very hot boiler water meets incoming cold mains water.

Over time, deposits reduce the internal diameter of pipework and waterways, slowing water flow and increasing pressure drop. This is why combi boiler limescale buildup is one of the biggest contributors to poor hot water performance.

Quick checks you can do now

Before calling an engineer, there are a few simple homeowner-friendly checks that can help you gauge whether limescale may be the issue.

• Run a hot tap and see if the flow is noticeably weaker than your cold tap.
• Check if the hot water temperature fluctuates or cuts out unexpectedly.
• Listen for boiler noises such as kettling or clicking when hot water is demanded.
• Compare performance at different outlets (kitchen vs bathroom).
• Check if your shower temperature drifts when other taps run.

If one or more of these symptoms occur, limescale restriction is a strong possibility, especially in hard water areas such as around Bordon and nearby towns.

Signs that limescale is affecting your boiler

Limescale rarely appears suddenly. Instead, it gradually reduces efficiency and performance. Homeowners often misinterpret the early signs as normal ageing, but recognising them early can prevent bigger problems.

• Slow hot water flow: The most common symptom of a partially blocked plate heat exchanger.
• Noisy boiler operation: Kettling, ticking or rumbling often occurs when scale restricts water movement.
• Temperature fluctuations: Water going hot-cold-hot indicates heat exchanger restriction.
• Boiler cutting out: Overheating caused by blocked waterways can trigger safety sensors to shut the boiler down.
• Higher gas usage: Reduced heat transfer means your boiler burns more fuel to achieve the same result.

If you notice several of these issues together, the buildup is likely moderate to severe.

How combi boiler limescale buildup restricts flow

Inside a plate heat exchanger are narrow waterways separated by thin metal plates. This large surface area allows efficient heat transfer between the boiler water and the domestic hot water. However, those very narrow waterways also make the component highly vulnerable to limescale.

As scale accumulates:

• The waterways narrow, restricting flow.
• Heat transfer efficiency drops.
• The boiler must run hotter and harder to compensate.
• Temperature sensors detect overheating and cut the boiler off.

This leads to inconsistent water temperature, long waits for hot water and even intermittent burner ignition. In areas around Bordon and Alton with naturally hard water, this is a very common pattern.

Professional descaling: what actually happens

If your heat exchanger is significantly scaled up, a professional descaling process can usually restore performance. A Gas Safe engineer will test flow rate, temperature rise and pressure before deciding the best approach.

Typical descaling steps include:

• Isolating the boiler and removing the plate heat exchanger.
• Circulating a safe acidic descaling solution through the component.
• Flushing and neutralising it to remove all residue.
• Reinstalling and testing flow and temperature performance.

Most clean heat exchangers show an immediate improvement in hot water flow. However, if the scale has hardened to the point of damaging the plates, replacement may be the only option. This is why early attention is so important.

Preventing future limescale and protecting your boiler

Once scale has been removed, prevention becomes the priority. With the right measures, you can dramatically slow or even halt new limescale formation.

Recommended preventative steps include:

• Install a scale reducer: Magnetic, electrolytic or chemical dosing units that treat cold water entering the boiler.
• Fit a full-home water softener: Particularly valuable in hard water regions including Bordon, Liphook and Farnham.
• Annual servicing: Early checks allow engineers to spot flow reduction before it becomes severe.
• Maintain correct boiler settings: Running hot water temperatures unnecessarily high accelerates limescale formation.

Here is a simple homeowner checklist:

• Monitor hot water flow at least once a month.
• Listen for new noises when heating hot water.
• Check shower performance regularly.
• Book annual servicing without fail.

When to call an engineer

If your hot water has slowed noticeably, your boiler is noisy, or temperature keeps fluctuating, it is best to have the system assessed before the scale causes expensive damage. Hardened limescale reduces component lifespan and increases the risk of complete heat exchanger failure, which can cost far more than descaling or preventative treatment.

Homes in Bordon, GU35 and nearby areas often experience recurring limescale issues without the right protective measures, so early diagnosis makes a significant difference.

Next steps: For advice or to book a professional boiler inspection, contact us on (01420) 558993.

Understanding Slow Boiler Pressure Drops in Lower Froyle

For homeowners in Lower Froyle, keeping boiler pressure between 1.0 and 1.5 bar is key to reliable heating. The pressure gauge, located on the front of your boiler, measures the force of water circulating through pipes and radiators. While minor spikes to 2.0 bar when the system heats up are normal, a steady drop—around 0.1–0.3 bar per day over several days—usually indicates water is escaping through a micro-leak.

These tiny leaks often go unnoticed at first but can lead to cold spots in radiators, noisy pipework, and even a complete heating breakdown. Lower boiler pressure forces your system to work harder, pushing up energy costs and increasing wear on components.

What Causes Micro-Leaks?

Worn Seals and Connections

Boilers and radiators rely on rubber and composite seals at joints and valves. Over time, these seals can harden, crack or suffer compression set due to heat cycles. A barely visible drip from a boiler pressure relief valve or pump seal may only lose a few millilitres daily, but this adds up and results in a noticeable pressure drop.

Regularly checking fittings around the boiler body and adjacent pipework can help you spot early signs of seal failure like moisture or discolouration.

Pinhole Corrosion in Radiators and Pipes

Internal corrosion occurs when untreated system water reacts with metal components. Magnetic debris and sludge can accelerate this process, creating pinholes in radiators or copper pipes. You might see rusty staining on your radiator panels or wet patches on walls behind pipe runs.

Flushing the system and fitting a magnetic filter during a boiler servicing appointment reduces debris, prolonging the lifespan of your system and preventing leaks.

Malfunctioning Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)

The PRV is a safety feature that releases water if pressure gets too high. If it becomes stiff, blocked by limescale or loses internal seal integrity, it can open at normal operating pressures, slowly releasing water onto a tray or drain pipe.

Listen for faint hissing sounds near the boiler or dampness around the discharge pipe. These are strong indicators the PRV needs attention from a Gas Safe engineer.

Spotting the Signs of a Slow Leak

• Consistent pressure drop of 0.1–0.3 bar per day
• Cold or unevenly heated radiators, especially on upstairs floors
• Damp patches around boiler, radiators or pipe fittings
• Regular need to top up using the filling loop
• Rust stains and corrosion around radiators or valves

DIY Troubleshooting Steps for Homeowners

Before booking a repair, try these simple checks:

• Check the filling loop: make sure to close the valves fully after topping up to avoid water escaping.
• Bleed radiators: use a radiator key to release trapped air—this can temporarily restore pressure if air buildup was the cause.
• Inspect visible pipework: look under the boiler, along radiator feeds, and around joints for drips or wetness.
• Clear the magnetic filter: if you have one, switch off the boiler, isolate the filter and remove debris to reduce system strain.
• Monitor the pressure gauge every morning: note any consistent downward trend.

If pressure continues to fall despite these steps, it’s time to call in professional help.

When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer in Lower Froyle

Persistent pressure loss often requires specialist leak detection tools and expertise. Our Gas Safe engineers in Lower Froyle and surrounding areas such as Bordon and Farnham are trained to perform comprehensive leak detection. We use ultrasonic equipment to pinpoint leaks behind walls or under floors without invasive work.

Once identified, we can carry out targeted boiler repair, replace faulty valves, reseal pumps, or swap out corroded sections of pipework—ensuring your heating returns to peak performance. We recommend scheduling annual inspections to catch these issues early.

Preventative Maintenance Tips

Taking proactive steps reduces the likelihood of micro-leaks:

• Organise annual boiler servicing to check for wear and corrosion.
• Use system inhibitors to prevent sludge and limescale buildup.
• Invest in a magnetic filter to trap debris before it can damage seals or pipes.
• Flush radiators every 3–5 years to remove internal corrosion.
• Consider a boiler cover plan for routine maintenance and emergency call-outs.

Is It Time for a New Boiler Installation?

If your boiler is more than 12 years old or you face regular pressure issues and radiator problems, upgrading might be the smartest move. A new boiler installation offers:

• Improved energy efficiency (up to 94% AFUE ratings)
• Enhanced corrosion resistance and longer warranties
• Smart controls for better temperature regulation
• Reduced likelihood of micro-leaks and heating breakdowns

Our team in Lower Froyle and Alton can help you choose the right model to suit your home’s heating demands and budget.

Energy Efficiency and Cost Savings

A leaking boiler steadily loses heat, forcing the system to fire more frequently and burn additional gas. By resolving micro-leaks and ensuring your boiler runs at optimal pressure, you can cut your fuel bills by 10–20%. Adding a smart thermostat or zoned heating controls further boosts savings, particularly in larger homes across GU34 or nearby Liss.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I know if the pressure relief valve is the problem?

A: Look for dampness around the discharge pipe and listen for hissing. If the PRV is faulty, it will need replacement by a qualified Gas Safe engineer.

Q: Can I carry on topping up the boiler myself?

A: While occasional top-ups are fine, repeated filling loops without fixing the leak will mask the issue and risk push water into places it shouldn’t, causing more damage.

Q: What does a boiler repair typically involve?

A: Repairs may include replacing seals, tightening joints, swapping out a PRV or fixing pinhole leaks in radiators. Costs depend on parts and labour but booking annual service helps keep expenses predictable.

If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

Many homeowners in Holybourne and the surrounding area of GU34 may notice an unwelcome, slightly damp smell when they turn on their radiators or boiler. This stale water odour can range from mildly unpleasant to overwhelming, and it often signals a deeper issue within your heating system. In this guide, we explain the most common causes of damp smells, simple troubleshooting you can do yourself, and when to call in a professional Gas Safe engineer.

Understanding Why Your System Smells Damp

A damp odour usually arises when water becomes trapped, stagnant, or contaminated within your heating circuit. As temperatures rise, any bacteria or sludge build up can release musty smells through your radiators and boiler flue. While occasional whiffs are normal after a cold spell, persistent damp odours suggest you need to act. Residents as far as Bordon, Alton and Liphook have reported similar problems, especially if boilers haven’t been serviced recently.

Common Causes of a Stale Water Smell

• Trapped Water in Radiators: Partially closed valves or air pockets can hold water that never circulates properly, leading to bacterial growth and a musty smell.
• Condensate Pipe Blockages: Modern condensing boilers expel acidic condensate. If the pipe is frozen or blocked, condensate can back up, creating damp odours inside the boiler cover.
• Sludge and Corrosion: Over time, oxidation and limescale in radiators and pipes form sludge. This organic material can emit a foul, damp scent when heated.
• Leaking Components: A hidden leak beneath the boiler or around pipe joints can soak insulation or floorboards, causing a damp smell long before you see water damage.
• HIU or Heat Interface Unit Issues: In flats or developments with communal boilers, faults in the HIU can allow water stagnation and unpleasant smells coming through the radiator valves.

Quick DIY Checks for Homeowners

Before calling an engineer, you can perform a few simple checks:

• Radiator Valves: Ensure inlet and lockshield valves are fully open. Partially closed valves can trap water at the top or bottom, so fully open them and then bleed gently.
• Bleed Radiators: Use a bleed key to release any trapped air. Even a small air pocket can prevent proper circulation and lead to stale water smells.
• Inspect Condensate Pipe: In cold weather, wrap the pipe with insulation to stop freezing. If you suspect a blockage, you might feel cold patching or hear gurgling when the boiler runs.
• Check for Visible Leaks: Look around the boiler, radiators, and pipe joints for damp patches or drips. A damp odor with no obvious leak could mean hidden dripping inside wall cavities.
• Flush a Single Radiator: Isolate and flush an affected radiator using a hose outdoors. Clean water indicates minimal sludge; dark, sludgy water suggests you need a system power flush.

Why Regular Maintenance Matters

Scheduling an annual boiler servicing can catch early signs of corrosion, sludge build-up, and condensate leaks before they turn into damp smells. Our Gas Safe engineers check pressure levels, test safety devices, and clean heat exchangers. This preventative step reduces odours, extends boiler life, and improves efficiency. Homeowners in Petersfield, Haslemere, and Farnham rely on timely servicing to keep their systems smelling fresh all year round.

Advanced Solutions: Power Flushing and Component Replacement

If simple DIY steps don’t eliminate the smell, your system may need more thorough cleaning or part replacements:

Power Flushing

A professional power flush pushes cleaning chemicals through the entire system at high velocity to remove sludge, rust, and scale. This process restores water quality, protects pumps and valves, and removes the organic matter that causes damp smells. Power flushing is especially helpful in older homes in Whitehill and Liss, where corrosion can be more advanced.

Replacing the Condensate Trap or Pump

Condensate traps can become blocked with debris or scale, leading to odours as trapped acidic water evaporates. If you’ve checked and insulated the condensate pipe with no improvement, a new trap or condensate pump might be required. Our team carries Genuine parts for systems across GU35 and GU34 postcodes.

Installing a Magnetic System Filter

To prevent future sludge build-up, consider adding a magnetic filter to your system. This device captures metallic debris and rust particles, stopping them from circulating and causing further corrosion or smells.

When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer

If you’ve tried the steps above and the smell persists, it’s time to call a qualified professional. Only a Gas Safe engineer should handle boiler internals, condensate pipe repairs, or power flushing. We cover Holybourne, Bordon, Liphook, and nearby Hindhead, ensuring rapid response times for emergencies like condensate leaks or system breakdowns.

For homes with outdated or frequently faulty boilers, it may be more cost effective to invest in a new boiler installation. Modern condensing boilers are compact, more efficient, and less prone to odour issues thanks to improved condensate management.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can a radiator smell damp without a leak?

A: Yes. Even sealed radiators can harbour stagnant water or sludge that emits a musty smell. Bleeding, flushing, or power flushing usually resolves this.

Q: How quickly can you fix a condensate pipe blockage?

A: Many condensate pipe issues can be cleared the same day. If a replacement trap or insulated pipe section is needed, we can usually complete the work within 24–48 hours.

Q: Will a service plan cover power flushing?

A: Standard boiler cover plans may exclude power flushing, but our tailored packages can include it. Check our boiler cover options for full details.

If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

What happened (and why it’s a big deal)

On 21 April 2026, the government published a statement on GOV.UK outlining a targeted package of measures designed to reduce the pass-through of natural gas prices into electricity bills. In plain English: the UK’s electricity costs are often heavily influenced by gas prices, even when a growing share of electricity is generated by renewables, nuclear, and imports. When gas spikes, electricity bills can spike too.

This matters for homeowners because the UK is in the middle of a heating transition. Heat pumps, electric boilers, and smart electric heating controls all sit on the assumption that electricity becomes more stable and better value versus gas over time. A policy shift aimed at “breaking” the link between gas and electricity pricing is a signal that government wants to reduce volatility and support a longer-term rebalancing of energy costs.

For households around Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere, where we see a mix of modern estates, older solid-wall properties, rural homes with oil/LPG, and plenty of combi boilers, the practical question is: what should I do with my heating system now?

Why gas has been setting electricity prices (the plain-English technical bit)

The electricity market has historically worked in a way that’s often described as “marginal pricing”. Demand is met by stacking different generation sources—wind, solar, nuclear, interconnectors, biomass, gas plants—until enough is online to meet demand at any given moment.

When the system needs gas power stations to top up supply (which is common during cold still evenings), those gas stations tend to be the last and most expensive units needed to meet demand. In many market designs, that “marginal” price becomes the market clearing price, meaning cheaper generators are paid the same market rate as the expensive one required at the margin.

So even if your electricity that day is largely coming from wind and nuclear, the wholesale price can still be pulled upward by gas. That’s the “gas sets the price of electricity” problem the announcement is trying to address.

From a heating perspective, that linkage has been a barrier. If electricity prices remain high relative to gas, then even efficient electric heating can feel expensive on the bill—unless the home is well insulated and the system is designed properly.

What the government is trying to achieve

The stated aim is to stabilise household costs and improve energy security by reducing how much gas price volatility shows up in electricity bills. While the exact mechanics will depend on how measures are implemented and regulated, the direction of travel is clear:

• Less electricity price volatility driven by gas (especially during global gas price spikes).
• More predictable investment signals for low-carbon generation and flexibility (storage, demand response, network upgrades).
• Better alignment between the actual mix of generation and what consumers pay.

For homeowners, the biggest implications are around the relative running costs of gas boilers vs. electric heating (especially heat pumps), plus how quickly smart tariffs and time-of-use pricing become relevant to everyday heating decisions.

What it means technically for your home heating choices

1) Heat pumps: the running-cost equation could improve

A heat pump doesn’t create heat; it moves it. Typically, for every 1kWh of electricity you put in, you might get 2.5–4kWh of heat out, depending on design, outdoor temperature, radiator sizing, and your flow temperatures. That efficiency is called the Coefficient of Performance (COP) (or seasonal efficiency, SCOP).

When electricity is expensive compared to gas, the advantage of a heat pump can be squeezed. If electricity prices become less tied to gas swings—and potentially better reflect cheaper generation—heat pumps become more financially attractive for more households.

However, it only works in your favour if the system is properly designed: low flow temperatures, correct emitter sizing (radiators/UFH), good controls, and decent insulation. A poorly designed heat pump system can still cost more to run than expected.

2) Boilers: still common, but “future-proofing” matters more

Gas boilers aren’t disappearing overnight. In towns like Farnham and Alton, we still see many well-maintained condensing boilers with years of life left, and for many households a boiler replacement remains the practical choice—particularly where a home isn’t yet ready for a low-temperature heating system.

But this policy direction is another nudge: if electricity pricing becomes more stable and competitive, the long-term running-cost advantage of gas can shrink. That doesn’t mean you must rip out your boiler—it means that when you do replace it, it’s worth choosing and setting it up in a way that keeps your options open.

Practical examples of “future-proofing” a boiler-led system:

• Set the boiler up to run at the lowest effective flow temperature (often 55°C or below for condensing efficiency, where the system allows).
• Make sure radiators are correctly sized and balanced so rooms heat evenly at lower temperatures.
• Upgrade controls (load/weather compensation where compatible) so the boiler doesn’t short-cycle and waste fuel.

3) Smart tariffs and thermal storage become more relevant

If the electricity market is shifting to reflect cheaper periods more accurately, then time-of-use tariffs (cheaper electricity at off-peak times) may become more attractive and more widely adopted.

For heating, this can change how you run your home:

• Heat pumps can be scheduled to do more work in cheaper hours (within comfort limits).
• Hot water cylinders can be heated during off-peak periods.
• Homes with battery storage may optimise import/export more effectively.

In areas like Liphook and Haslemere, where some properties have larger footprints and higher hot-water demand, a well-insulated cylinder and smart control strategy can make a noticeable difference, especially if tariffs reward flexible use.

What it means financially (what could change on bills)

There are three layers to your energy bill: wholesale costs, network costs, and policy/operating costs. This announcement is about reducing how gas wholesale price movements drive electricity wholesale prices. That could lead to:

• Less dramatic electricity price spikes during gas market shocks.
• More confidence in long-term electric heating running costs if mechanisms work as intended.
• More stable budgeting for households using electric heating or running a heat pump.

But it’s important to stay grounded: changes like this don’t always translate into immediate bill reductions, and the details of implementation matter. Also, even if wholesale pricing becomes more favourable, your total bill still includes standing charges and network costs, which are a major factor for many households.

What you can do right now is focus on the changes that reliably lower bills regardless of market reforms:

• Reduce heat demand: draught-proofing, loft insulation, sensible ventilation upgrades.
• Improve heating system efficiency: correct boiler settings, balancing, smart zoning where appropriate.
• Choose the right upgrade path: a heat pump works best when the home is prepared for low-temperature heating.

What it means locally for Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere

National policy shifts land differently depending on property type, local infrastructure, and the heating fuels already in use.

Bordon & Whitehill

With a mix of newer developments and established housing, there’s a real opportunity for low-temperature heating strategies—whether that’s optimising a modern condensing boiler or preparing for a heat pump in future. Newer homes often have better insulation and radiator sizing that can more easily support lower flow temperatures, which is crucial for both boiler efficiency and heat pump performance.

Liphook

We commonly see larger family homes and a spread of heating types. If electricity pricing becomes less gas-driven, heat pump interest typically rises—but we still find many homes need upgrades to emitters and controls to get the best from them. If you have an ageing hot water cylinder or poor insulation around it, you could be losing money every day regardless of tariff.

Alton

Alton has plenty of traditional homes where insulation and fabric performance vary. The best “first move” often isn’t a heat source swap; it’s getting the heat distribution and controls right. Many boiler systems run hotter than needed, which increases gas use and reduces condensing efficiency. Lowering flow temperature safely can bring savings immediately.

Farnham & Haslemere

In these areas we see a lot of character properties alongside more modern builds. For older homes, the pathway to lower running costs usually looks like: fabric improvements → heating controls → emitter upgrades → then heat source decisions. If electricity prices stabilise and improve against gas, more homeowners will find the jump to a heat pump financially reasonable—but it still hinges on the home being able to run comfortably at lower temperatures.

What homeowners should do next (practical steps that pay off)

Step 1: Check your boiler settings (most are not optimised)

If you have a combi or system boiler, look at the central heating flow temperature setting. Many homes are set to 70–80°C “because that’s how it’s always been.” If your radiators can still heat the home adequately at a lower setting, you can often reduce gas use and improve comfort.

As a rule of thumb, many condensing boilers perform best when return temperatures allow them to condense (often supported when flow is around 55–60°C, depending on system). Don’t change settings blindly if your system struggles—especially in cold snaps—but it’s worth testing and fine-tuning.

Step 2: If you’re considering a heat pump, assess readiness not hype

A heat pump decision should be based on an honest survey of:

• Heat loss (how much heat your home actually needs in winter).
• Emitter capacity (radiator sizes/UFH suitability at low flow temperatures).
• Hot water setup (space for a cylinder, pipework condition, insulation).
• Controls and zoning (steady operation is usually better than aggressive on/off cycling).

In practical terms: if your home only feels warm when the boiler is set very hot, that’s a sign you may need radiator upgrades or insulation improvements before a heat pump will shine.

Step 3: Don’t overlook balancing and hydraulics

A surprisingly high number of homes in and around Bordon, Alton and Farnham suffer from uneven heating: some rooms roasting, others cold. That’s often a balancing issue, sometimes compounded by sludged-up radiators or an incorrectly set pump.

Balancing, inhibitor checks, and (where needed) a powerflush or targeted remedial work can improve heat delivery and cut runtime. Better distribution also supports lower flow temperatures, which is the foundation of both modern boiler efficiency and heat pump performance.

Step 4: Use your hot water cylinder properly (or consider adding one)

If you have a cylinder, ensure it’s well insulated and on a sensible schedule. If smart tariffs become more favourable, the cylinder becomes a tool: heat it during cheaper periods and reduce peak-time consumption.

If you’re on a combi and thinking long-term, it’s worth understanding that many heat pump systems are easier to run (and often more comfortable) with a cylinder. That doesn’t mean you must change now, but it’s part of the planning.

Step 5: Keep an eye on tariffs—but fix the basics first

Tariff optimisation can help, but it can’t rescue a wasteful system. A properly set-up heating system can save you money every hour the heating runs, regardless of who your supplier is. Once your system is efficient, smart tariffs and scheduling become the icing on the cake.

The bigger picture for the next 12–24 months

This announcement is a signpost: policymakers want electricity prices to better reflect a changing generation mix and to reduce exposure to gas volatility. If the measures succeed, we’d expect a gradual strengthening of the case for electrification—particularly heat pumps—while also increasing the importance of controls, flexibility, and low-temperature heating design.

For homeowners across Whitehill, Liphook and Haslemere, the sensible approach is to make upgrades in a sequence that avoids waste: reduce heat demand, improve distribution and controls, then decide on the heat source when the numbers (and your property) are ready.

If you want help working out the best next step for your home—whether that’s boiler optimisation, heating controls, radiator upgrades, or planning a future heat pump—book a visit with Embassy Gas: (01420) 558993 | helpdesk@embassygas.com | https://www.embassygas.com/book

Why You Might Hear a Soft Ticking in Your Chawton Boiler

Have you noticed a gentle ticking sound coming from your boiler in Chawton? You’re not alone. As winter approaches, many homeowners in Chawton, Bordon and nearby villages like Alton and Liphook hear this noise when the heating system fires up or cools down. While it can be surprising, a soft tick is often a sign of metal parts contracting as they cool rather than an urgent heating breakdown.

The Science of Cooling Metal Contraction

Inside your boiler and pipework, temperatures can reach well over 60°C when the heating is on. When you turn off the system or the thermostat cycles down, metals like steel and copper start to cool rapidly. This cooling causes the metal to contract and change shape ever so slightly. Each tiny movement creates a soft ticking sound as surfaces rub or settle.

Heat Exchanger and Pipework

The heat exchanger in your boiler transfers heat from the burner to the water. It’s made of metal that expands and contracts with temperature changes. Similarly, copper pipes leading to radiators shift against wall brackets. These shifts are most noticeable in older GU35 and GU34 properties in Chawton where metal has worn slightly over years of heating cycles.

Common Triggers in Chawton Properties

• Early Morning Start-Ups: When you switch on the heating for the first time in the morning, cold metal components heat up rapidly, then cool once the thermostat is satisfied.
• Thermostat Cycling: Modern boilers in GU30 postcode homes cycle on and off to maintain a set temperature, leading to repeated expansion and contraction.
• Radiator Problems: Air pockets in radiators can cause uneven heating and cooling, making ticking noises more pronounced.

Steps to Reduce Ticking Noises

While a soft tick is usually harmless, constant or loud ticking can be annoying. Try these simple DIY fixes to minimise the noise before calling in an expert:

• Bleed your radiators to release trapped air and ensure even heat distribution.
• Check pipework supports and tighten loose clips to prevent pipes from vibrating against walls.
• Adjust your thermostat slightly upward to reduce frequent on/off cycles.
• Consider installing foil-backed insulation behind radiators to cushion pipe expansion.

When to Book a Boiler Servicing

If you’ve tried the above and still hear persistent ticking, it’s wise to book a service. Our Gas Safe engineers can:

• Inspect the heat exchanger for cracks or signs of fatigue.
• Check water pressure and flow rates to ensure they’re within safe limits.
• Examine pipework for corrosion or worn brackets causing excessive movement.
• Perform a full boiler cover health check to catch minor issues before they worsen.

Considering a New Boiler Installation?

In older homes around Petersfield, Haslemere or Hindhead, ageing boilers may tick more as components wear down. If your system is over 10 years old, you might explore a new boiler installation. Modern condensing boilers run quieter, more efficiently and with fewer temperature variations that lead to metal contraction noises.

Preventing Future Noises with Regular Maintenance

Regular care can keep your boiler running smoothly and quietly:

• Annual boiler servicing by a qualified Gas Safe engineer in Chawton or nearby Whitehill.
• Installing magnetic filters to remove sludge, which can cause uneven heating and ticking.
• Checking expansion vessel pressure to avoid rapid temperature swings.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Is ticking a sign of imminent boiler failure?

Not usually. Soft ticking from cooling metal contraction is normal. However, loud or irregular noises should be checked by a professional.

2. How often should I service my boiler?

We recommend an annual service to maintain efficiency and catch potential issues early.

3. Can I silence the ticking myself?

Simple fixes like tightening pipe clips or bleeding radiators can help. For persistent noise, call our team.

If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Chawton, Bordon, Alton, Liphook and surrounding areas.

When temperatures drop, it is very common for a boiler to take longer to warm up your hot water. Even a well-maintained system can struggle a little during freezing spells across areas like Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton and Farnham. The good news is that most causes are normal and easy to fix without tools or technical knowledge.

Why cold weather affects a boiler slow to heat water

Your boiler has to work harder when the incoming mains water is much colder. The colder the starting temperature, the longer it takes your boiler to raise it to a usable level. In the GU35, GU34 and GU9 areas, winter mains temperatures can drop dramatically, making delays more noticeable. Other factors such as sludge, thermostat settings and diverter valve behaviour may also contribute.

Quick checks you can do now

Before adjusting anything complicated, try these simple checks first. Many homeowners see an instant improvement.

• Check your hot water temperature setting is above 50°C.
• Ensure your boiler is not set to ECO mode.
• Run the tap slowly to avoid overwhelming the boiler.
• Make sure your heating and hot water schedules do not overlap unnecessarily.
• Restart the boiler to clear temporary sensor glitches.

Colder mains water and how to compensate

During winter, the water entering your home can be up to 10°C colder than in summer. Combi boilers need to heat that water instantly, and the greater the temperature rise required, the slower the output. If you live in Bordon or nearby villages where winter temperatures drop quickly, you will notice this more.

Ways to compensate include:

• Increase hot water temperature on the boiler to around 55–60°C.
• Reduce tap flow slightly so the boiler has more dwell time to heat the water.
• Run the tap for 20–30 seconds to allow the boiler to stabilise.

Flow rate: the hidden factor slowing down hot water

The faster water flows through your taps, the less time the boiler has to heat it. Many homeowners assume turning the tap fully open means quicker hot water, but the opposite is often true. If your property in Bordon, Alton or Liphook has high mains pressure, the flow can be too fast for the boiler’s rated output.

A quick way to test this is to reduce the tap speed and see if the water gets hotter more quickly. If it does, your boiler is functioning correctly but needs a slower flow rate in extreme cold.

Boiler settings that impact heat-up time

Several settings can dramatically affect how quickly your hot water warms up, especially in cold weather.

• Hot water setpoint: This should usually be 50–60°C for fast, comfortable output.
• ECO mode: Intended to save energy, but slows reheat performance. Switching it off in winter can help.
• Preheat function: Some boilers store a small amount of warm water for instant use. If disabled, hot water will take longer.
• Heating priority: Some systems give hot water or heating priority depending on mode. If your heating is running heavily, hot water may heat more slowly.

Diverter valve behaviour in cold weather

On combi boilers, the diverter valve directs heat either to the radiators or the hot water plate heat exchanger. Cold weather can make radiators work harder, meaning the system may take an extra second or two to switch to hot water mode. This is normal, but if the delay becomes long, sticky diverter valves are a common cause.

Signs to watch for include:

• Radiators warming slightly when you open a hot tap.
• Hot water temperature fluctuating while running.
• Unusual clicking or mechanical noises from the boiler.

These issues are not dangerous, but they may require a Gas Safe engineer if persistent.

Is sludge or scale making hot water slower?

In areas like Farnham and Alton with harder water, limescale can build up inside the boiler’s plate heat exchanger. This reduces heat transfer, making the boiler appear slower at heating water. Sludge in system pipes can also reduce flow rates in system and heat-only boilers.

Simple signs that sludge or scale may be present include:

• Boiler kettling noises (whistling or bubbling).
• Hot water going hot–cold–hot rapidly.
• Radiators with cold spots or slow heat-up.

Maintenance such as a system flush or replacing a scaled heat exchanger can restore performance. These jobs should always be carried out by a Gas Safe engineer.

Checklist: quick homeowner fixes to speed up hot water

• Turn hot water temperature up to 55–60°C.
• Switch off ECO mode during very cold spells.
• Reduce tap flow slightly for faster heat-up.
• Enable the boiler’s preheat or comfort mode if available.
• Stagger heating and hot water schedules.
• Insulate external pipes, especially condensate pipes.

Preventing slow hot water problems in the future

Regular servicing is the best way to keep your boiler working efficiently all year round. In places like Bordon, Whitehill and GU35 areas where winters can be sharp, pre-winter checks can make a noticeable difference.

Preventive steps include:

• Annual boiler service to catch early issues.
• Limescale reduction filters if you live in a hard water zone.
• Ensuring your condensate pipe is insulated to prevent freezing.
• Using heating schedules that avoid unnecessary system strain.

Next steps

If your boiler still feels slow after trying the steps above, reach out for friendly help at (01420) 558993.

A chilly surprise: warm radiators, cold rooms

It’s a situation many homeowners in Greatham face during the colder months: your radiators are hot to the touch, yet you’re still reaching for that extra jumper. Understanding where the heat goes in your home is the first step to transforming that lingering chill into consistent comfort. In this guide, we’ll explore how insulation, air leakage and heating system performance combine to determine your indoor warmth.

How heat loss affects homes in Greatham

Every home loses heat through walls, roofs, floors and windows. In older properties around Greatham, Liphook or Petersfield, traditional cavity walls may lack adequate insulation, letting precious warmth escape. Here are the main culprits:

• Poor loft insulation: Heat rises, so an under-insulated loft can account for up to 25% of total heat loss.
• Uninsulated cavity walls: Without a barrier, cold air seeps in and warmth leaks out, increasing your boiler’s workload.
• Single-glazed windows: Older windows can get cold to the touch and allow draughts, leaving rooms feeling frosty even with hot radiators.
• Gaps and draughts: Cracks around doors, skirting boards and loft hatches can quickly sap heat from your living spaces.

Assessing your home’s insulation levels

Before upgrading your heating system, it pays to tackle insulation first. A quick energy audit can help pinpoint weak spots:

• Check your loft: Aim for at least 270mm of mineral wool or equivalent. If it’s less, an extra layer could pay back in energy savings.
• Inspect cavity walls: Older homes in Greatham and Haslemere might never have had insulation injected. Specialist installers can assess feasibility and fill cavities with foam or mineral granules.
• Evaluate floor insulation: Suspended timber floors in properties around Alton may benefit from added insulation beneath floorboards to reduce draughts and cold feet.
• Upgrade glazing: Double- or triple-glazed windows retain heat far better than single panes, making ground-floor and sash windows less of a weak link.

Sealing gaps to keep heat where it belongs

Draughts are often the chief reason rooms feel cold despite warm radiators. A few practical steps include:

• Fitting door sweeps and draught excluders to seal gaps beneath external doors.
• Applying mastic sealant around skirting boards and architraves to block airflow.
• Installing self-adhesive foam strips around window frames to reduce cold air infiltration.

Balancing your heating system for even warmth

Sometimes the solution lies within the radiators themselves. Inconsistent heating across rooms can make well-insulated spaces feel cold if valves aren’t set correctly:

• Bleed your radiators: Trapped air pockets can prevent hot water from circulating fully. A quick bleed can restore full heating output.
• Balance radiator valves: Adjust thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) so hotter rooms like the living area don’t hog all the heat.
• Install reflector panels: Insulating panels behind radiators reflect heat back into rooms instead of into walls.

When it’s time for a boiler upgrade

Even with perfect insulation and draught-proofing, an ageing boiler can struggle to maintain consistent temperatures. If your boiler is over 10–15 years old or you’ve noticed rising fuel bills, consider a new boiler installation. Modern condensing boilers deliver higher efficiency, reducing heat loss and energy costs.

Maintaining peak efficiency with regular servicing

To prevent heat loss through inefficient combustion and avoid unexpected breakdowns in Greatham or nearby GU35 areas, schedule annual boiler servicing. Our Gas Safe engineers will:

• Clean and inspect burner components
• Check gas pressure and safety controls
• Identify minor faults before they become costly repairs

Covering yourself against heating emergencies

A sudden heating breakdown on a freezing night is every homeowner’s nightmare. A comprehensive boiler cover plan protects you from unexpected repair bills and ensures priority call-out when you need it most.

Practical extras to lock in warmth

Even after insulation and system upgrades, small extras can make a big difference:

• Heavy curtains and pelmets at windows to trap warm air.
• Area rugs on tiled or wooden floors to insulate underfoot.
• Smart thermostats that learn your schedule and optimise heating cycles.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Why are my radiators hot but rooms still cold?

Heat may be escaping through poor insulation, draughty gaps or an unbalanced heating system. Addressing these factors restores consistent warmth.

2. How much can I save by upgrading insulation?

Proper loft and cavity wall insulation can cut heating bills by up to 25%, while double-glazing adds further savings.

3. When should I replace my boiler?

Consider a new boiler if yours is over 12 years old, requires frequent repairs or your energy bills keep rising despite servicing.

4. Can I DIY draught-proofing?

Yes, sealing small gaps and adding draught excluders is straightforward. For larger insulation works, professional installers ensure optimal results.

If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

Why Your Boiler Is Running but the Taps Stay Cold in Oakhanger

It can be worrying when your central heating kicks in, warming radiators, yet there’s no hot water from the taps. In many Oakhanger households, the culprit is often a faulty diverter valve. This vital component directs hot water either to your heating system or to your hot water taps, and when it fails, you lose the latter.

How the Diverter Valve Works Inside Your Boiler

Inside a combi boiler, the diverter valve switches the flow of heated water. When you turn on a tap, it moves to channel hot water to your taps; when you use the heating, it shifts back. In Oakhanger and nearby areas like Bordon (GU35), Alton and Liphook, this mechanism is key to enjoying both heating and hot water on demand.

Common Signs of Diverter Valve Failure

• Radiators heat up but taps stay cold or lukewarm
• Sudden temperature changes when switching between heating and hot water
• Unusual noises—clicking or banging—from the boiler
• Water pressure fluctuations when taps are in use

Troubleshooting Steps You Can Try Before Calling a Pro

Before arranging a service visit in Oakhanger or Petersfield, you can perform basic checks to rule out simple causes:

• Check the boiler pressure gauge. Ideal pressure is 1–1.5 bar; re-pressurise if it’s low.
• Ensure the timer and thermostat settings are correct for hot water mode.
• Inspect the selector switch (if fitted) for dishwasher or bath settings interfering with hot water flow.
• Bleed radiators to eliminate trapped air which can affect system balance.
• Verify that any external valves on your hot water cylinder are fully open.

When the Issue Persists

If you’ve gone through the basic checks and there’s still no hot water, it’s time to call a professional. A stuck or malfunctioning diverter valve typically requires specialised tools and replacement parts. Attempting DIY repairs on gas appliances can be dangerous and will invalidate most warranties.

How Our Gas Safe Engineers Diagnose and Repair Diverter Valve Faults

At Embassy Gas, our Gas Safe engineers cover Oakhanger and surrounding GU35 areas. Here’s what to expect during a visit:

• Full System Inspection: We examine boiler pressures, flow rates and examine the diverter valve’s movement.
• Component Testing: Using diagnostic tools, we confirm if the valve is fully operational or sticking.
• Valve Replacement: If needed, we install a manufacturer-approved diverter valve.
• Safety and Performance Check: Post-replacement, we test for leaks, noise and ensure your hot water supply is restored.

If your boiler is older or experiencing repeated breakdowns, our team can also discuss new boiler installation options in Alton, Liphook and beyond, ensuring efficient heating and reliable hot water.

Preventing Future Diverter Valve Issues

Regular maintenance is key to preventing diverter valve and other boiler component failures. We recommend:

• Annual boiler servicing by a qualified Gas Safe engineer to clean, lubricate and test moving parts.
• Installing a magnetic filter to capture system debris that can clog valves.
• Using an inhibitor chemical to prevent corrosion and limescale build-up.
• Upgrading to a protective boiler cover plan for peace of mind and reduced repair costs.
• Keeping an eye on water pressure and bleeding radiators annually.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I clean the diverter valve myself?

A: Cleaning usually involves stripping the boiler, which isn’t recommended for non-professionals. Always use a Gas Safe engineer.

Q: How long does a diverter valve replacement take?

A: Most replacements can be completed within 2–3 hours, depending on boiler access and component availability.

Q: Will a faulty diverter valve affect my heating bills?

A: Yes. A partially stuck valve can make your boiler work harder, increasing energy consumption.

Need Help with Your Boiler or Hot Water?

Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Oakhanger, Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Petersfield and surrounding areas.