Category: Heating hub

The story this week: Ofgem steps in after June’s extreme heat stressed the electricity system

Ofgem has announced a formal review and an independent investigation into how the UK’s electricity system was operated during June’s extreme heat event. The regulator has commissioned NESO (National Energy System Operator) to produce a post‑event analysis covering the weather conditions, how the system was run, and how key decisions were made. Separately, Ofgem is also overseeing matters linked to whistleblowing allegations about NESO’s conduct during the event.

That might sound like distant, national‑level news. But for homeowners in places like Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere, it points to something very practical: the UK’s energy system is being pushed harder in summer than it used to be. That changes how we should think about heating, hot water, heat pumps, smart tariffs, and home resilience generally.

What actually happened (in plain English)

During the June heat, the electricity system had to cope with conditions that are becoming more common: prolonged high temperatures, higher daytime demand (especially from cooling, refrigeration, and workplaces), and constraints on parts of the infrastructure that were designed for a different climate pattern.

Ofgem’s move signals two things:

• This mattered enough to trigger formal regulatory scrutiny, not just an internal “lessons learned”.
• System operation during extreme heat is now being treated as a consumer issue—because if the grid is strained, households can face higher costs, disrupted service, or new rules around demand management.

Even if you personally didn’t notice any disruption in Hampshire or the Surrey borders, the investigation is about how close the system came to trouble, and whether operational decisions were appropriate. The outputs can influence future guidance on how the grid is managed in heatwaves—right down to how household devices are encouraged (or incentivised) to run.

Why this matters to homeowners (it’s not just a “power industry” story)

Historically, most households worried about energy resilience in winter: frozen condensate pipes, boiler breakdowns, high gas bills. But the UK is now living with a different pattern:

• Hotter summers that push electricity usage up.
• More electrification (heat pumps, EV charging, induction cooking).
• More “smart” control (time‑of‑use tariffs, automated load shifting).

As more heating and hot water becomes electrically driven, the way the grid performs on the hottest days starts to affect your comfort and running costs just as much as what happens on the coldest nights.

In practical terms for homes in Farnham and Haslemere with larger properties and home offices, or newer developments around Bordon/Whitehill where electrification is more common, peak summer electricity demand can translate into:

• Greater price volatility on flexible tariffs.
• More calls to shift usage (e.g., running hot water or charging EVs at different times).
• More attention on “demand” devices like heat pumps, immersion heaters, and battery systems.

The technical bit: how extreme heat changes grid performance

It’s tempting to think: “Heatwaves mean less heating, so surely energy demand falls.” In reality, heatwaves can put the electricity system under strain for several engineering reasons:

1) Power cables and lines carry less safely in high temperatures

Overhead lines sag more when they get hot. Underground cables and transformers have thermal limits too. When ambient temperatures are high, the system sometimes has to run equipment with more caution, which can reduce the effective capacity available at peak times.

2) Some generation performs less efficiently

Heat can reduce the efficiency of certain power stations, and maintenance schedules can coincide with summer. Not every part of the generation fleet is equally comfortable in prolonged high temperatures.

3) Demand patterns change sharply

Air conditioning is not as widespread in UK homes as in hotter countries, but it is growing in workplaces, server rooms, retail, and newer domestic installs. Add to that increased use of fans, refrigeration working harder, and people at home using more appliances during heat stress. The result is a different peak demand profile—often peaking later in the day than traditional winter peaks.

4) Electrified heating still matters in summer because of hot water

If you have a heat pump or an electric cylinder/immersion for hot water, you still have an electrical load even when you’re not “heating the house”. On very hot days, some systems will also work harder to keep cylinder temperatures stable and safe (particularly if you’re using hot water more frequently due to showers).

5) Smart control becomes part of system operation

The modern grid increasingly relies on demand response—encouraging loads to move away from stressed periods. Ofgem’s focus on decision‑making during the heat event hints that operational choices (not just the weather) can affect outcomes. That matters because many households now have devices designed to respond automatically: smart thermostats, heat pump controllers, EV chargers, and battery inverters.

What it means technically for home heating and hot water

For most homeowners, the immediate question is: “Will my boiler or heat pump be affected?” The answer depends on your system.

If you have a gas boiler

A gas boiler is not directly dependent on grid capacity to produce heat, but it does rely on electricity for controls, ignition, pumps and fans. If there’s a power cut, your boiler will not run. The Ofgem review is not predicting outages; it’s investigating system operation. However, it underlines why it’s sensible to think about short power interruptions and what they mean for:

• Hot water availability (no electrics = no boiler operation).
• Heating controls (smart thermostats, internet hubs, and zone valves may not behave as you expect after an interruption).

In towns like Alton and Liphook where many properties are still gas‑heated, a heatwave grid issue won’t raise heating demand, but it can still impact hot water continuity and appliance behaviour.

If you have a heat pump

Heat pumps are fully dependent on electricity, and their running costs can be more sensitive to time-of-use pricing. During stressed grid periods, you may see:

• Higher peak prices on agile tariffs.
• More incentive to pre-heat hot water earlier in the day (while staying within safe temperatures and manufacturer guidance).
• Potential utility “events” asking customers to avoid discretionary use at certain times.

Technically, a heat pump also has operating limits in high ambient temperatures—though in summer it’s normally only producing hot water. If your unit is installed in a tight, sun‑baked location (a south‑facing corner with poor airflow is a common culprit), extreme heat can reduce performance and may trigger protective behaviour. That is an installation/detail issue we can usually improve: shading, clearance, air circulation, and correct siting.

If you rely on an immersion heater for hot water

An immersion heater is simple but expensive to run at peak rates. If system stress in heatwaves pushes prices up, the “hidden” cost of that cylinder can jump. Many homes in the area—especially older properties in Haslemere or rural edges around Farnham—have cylinders where the immersion has become the default due to a failed programmer, a broken boiler control, or a miswired hot water zone. That’s easy to miss because it still “works”, just at a much higher cost.

What it means financially: bills, tariffs and the cost of doing nothing

Ofgem’s investigation isn’t a new charge on your bill. The financial relevance is more indirect—but very real:

1) Peak pricing exposure is becoming a bigger deal

If you’re on a smart tariff that tracks wholesale conditions, stressed periods can mean higher electricity costs. Heat pumps, immersion heaters, and EV chargers can magnify that. A household in Whitehill with a heat pump and an EV could see “coincidental load” (hot water + charging + cooking) landing right in an expensive window unless it’s actively managed.

2) Energy resilience improvements may become better value

As the grid leans more on demand flexibility, investments like better hot water insulation, properly set cylinder schedules, and smart controls that are configured correctly become more worthwhile. These are not glamorous upgrades, but they can materially reduce your exposure to peaks.

3) Poorly set systems cost more in summer than most people realise

We often find summer running costs caused by:

• Cylinders maintained at unnecessarily high temperatures all day.
• Immersion heaters left permanently on.
• Heat pumps cycling due to incorrect hot water settings.
• Timers wiping their programmes after brief power interruptions.

Heatwaves don’t cause those faults, but they make the cost of them more painful—especially if prices are peaky.

Local relevance: what households in Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere should watch for

National grid events land locally in different ways. In our patch, there are a few patterns worth noting:

• Mixed housing stock: From period properties around Farnham and Haslemere to newer housing around Bordon/Whitehill. That means a wide spread of system types—combis, system boilers with cylinders, heat pumps, and hybrid setups.
• Longer hot water pipe runs in larger homes: Bigger properties can have higher hot water losses, so poorly insulated pipework quietly drives up summer energy use.
• Home working: In areas like Liphook and Alton, daytime occupancy is often higher than it used to be. That changes when hot water demand happens, and it can clash with peak electricity periods.

The Ofgem review is essentially a warning light that “summer peaks” are now important. Even if your heating is off, your home is still an energy system.

What homeowners should do next (practical steps that actually help)

Check what heats your hot water today

Find out whether your hot water is being made by: boiler, heat pump, immersion heater, or a mix. If you have a cylinder, confirm whether the immersion is on a timer or permanently energised. A surprising number of households are unintentionally using immersion as the primary heat source.

Review your hot water schedule and cylinder temperature

For most homes, you don’t need all‑day hot water heating. A timed heat period (or two shorter periods) is usually enough. Keep temperature settings within manufacturer guidance and safety requirements—hot water must be stored hot enough to control legionella risk, but it also shouldn’t be running higher or longer than necessary.

Make sure your controls recover properly after a brief power cut

If your programmer loses time or settings when power is interrupted, you can end up with heating/hot water running at odd times. If you’ve noticed the clock drifting, displays flashing, or schedules “forgetting”, it’s worth sorting now—these small faults translate into real money on modern tariffs.

Heat pump owners: check airflow, siting and summer hot water behaviour

Look at where the outdoor unit sits. Is it in full sun with limited clearance? Are leaves/debris restricting airflow? Does it short‑cycle when making hot water? These issues don’t always break the system, but they affect efficiency and reliability during extremes.

Consider surge protection and sensible electrics for plant rooms

As homes add controls, Wi‑Fi thermostats, smart relays and motorised valves, they become more sensitive to electrical disturbances. A qualified electrician can advise on protection where appropriate. It’s not about panic; it’s about recognising that more of your comfort now depends on electronics.

If you’re considering a heat pump, design for both winter cold and summer heat

Heat pump conversations too often focus only on “can it heat the house in January?” A good design also anticipates:

• How hot water will be made efficiently year‑round.
• How the system will run on flexible tariffs.
• Where the outdoor unit will sit to avoid heat stress and noise issues.

That’s particularly relevant for homeowners planning upgrades in Bordon and Whitehill, where property improvement and electrification are common topics.

What to expect next from Ofgem’s review (and how to stay ahead)

Ofgem’s process is aimed at establishing facts, learning lessons, and strengthening resilience. For households, the likely downstream effects over time are:

• More emphasis on demand flexibility and smart usage during stressed periods.
• Greater scrutiny of operator decision‑making, which can shape future operational rules.
• Potential consumer guidance around participation in flexibility schemes and protections where automated control is involved.

You don’t need to wait for the final report to benefit. The best “homeowner response” is to treat hot water and heating controls as an engineered system, not just a set-and-forget utility. A quick audit of what you’ve got—what heats the water, when it runs, and whether it’s behaving as intended—can cut waste and reduce your exposure to peak prices, regardless of what the grid does next.

Need a proper check of your hot water controls, immersion setup, heat pump settings or overall system efficiency? Book with Embassy Gas: https://www.embassygas.com/book | (01420) 558993 | helpdesk@embassygas.com

When the hot taps only run lukewarm, daily routines become frustrating fast. Whether you rely on a combi boiler or a cylinder-and-boiler setup, understanding why the temperature drops is the first step to a reliable fix. This guide explains what typically causes temperature issues and offers clear, practical checks you can safely do at home. Homeowners across Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and surrounding GU35, GU34 and GU9 areas often experience similar symptoms, so the steps below apply widely.

Quick checks you can do now

Before diving deeper, run through these simple tests. They take only a few minutes and often point you in the right direction.

• Run just one hot tap at a time to see if the temperature improves.
• Check whether the boiler or cylinder thermostat is set too low.
• Listen for the boiler firing when you open the hot tap.
• Confirm no one else is using water elsewhere in the property.
• Check that the cylinder immersion switch (if fitted) is actually on.

Why you might experience water not hot enough

This issue usually comes down to one of three things: insufficient heating inside the hot water cylinder, a failing immersion heater, or low boiler output due to high water demand. Understanding which applies to your setup helps narrow the cause quickly.

Temperature issues with hot water cylinders

If you have a system or regular boiler with a cylinder, the stored water must reach at least 55–60°C to feel properly hot at the tap. When it doesn’t, the following are the main suspects:

• Thermostat set too low: If the cylinder stat is below 55°C, the water may feel merely warm.
• Boiler flow temperature reduced: Modern boilers allow user-adjustable flow temps; if set too low, the cylinder never reaches its target.
• Sludge or scale on the coil: This reduces heat transfer, especially in hard-water areas like parts of Alton and Farnham.
• Faulty motorised valve: If the valve is stuck, the cylinder may not receive heat even if the boiler is running.

Checklist: what to inspect on your cylinder

• Find the cylinder thermostat and confirm it is set between 55–60°C.
• Listen for a click when adjusting the dial, indicating it is activating.
• Check the programmer or controls to ensure hot water mode is actually on.
• Feel the flow pipe into the cylinder during heating; it should be noticeably hot.

If the pipe stays cool, the water is not being heated properly, and the issue is likely with the boiler, valves, or flow temperature setting.

Immersion heater problems

An immersion heater acts as a backup or primary water heater depending on how your system is set up. When it develops faults, you may get lukewarm water or none at all. Common signs include the immersion switch showing power but no actual heat, or the cylinder warming extremely slowly. In older homes around Bordon and Whitehill, immersions are often original and may simply have aged elements.

• Check the fused switch is on and the fuse intact.
• Confirm the immersion thermostat is set correctly.
• Listen for slight humming or heating noise; silence can indicate a failed element.

If the immersion still produces no heat after these checks, the element is likely failed and requires professional replacement.

Combi boilers: flow rate and why it matters

Combi boilers heat water on demand. This means if too much water flows through the unit, it cannot heat it sufficiently, resulting in tepid water. This is particularly common during winter when incoming mains water is colder.

To test this, run a single hot tap fully open and time how long it takes to fill a 1-litre jug. If you get more than 6–7 litres per minute on a small-to-medium combi, the boiler may struggle to raise the temperature. Reducing the flow slightly usually stabilises the temperature.

Testing flow rates at home

This simple test helps determine whether your combi is being overwhelmed:

• Open the hot tap fully.
• Fill a 1-litre container and time it.
• Calculate litres per minute (LPM) by multiplying by 60.
• If above the boiler’s rated LPM, reduce the tap opening and re-test.

Homeowners in GU35, GU34 and GU9 areas often report that slightly reducing the hot tap flow restores stable, properly hot water.

System boilers and slow recovery issues

For system boilers with cylinders, poor recovery time is another common cause of lukewarm water. If the boiler output is too low, or the cylinder coil is scaled, the water reheats slowly. This is noticeable when multiple showers run within a short period.

Check your programmer settings to ensure sufficient hot water heat-up times. If you notice the boiler cycling rapidly or failing to ramp up, a heating engineer may need to assess the boiler’s flow temperature or pump performance.

Next steps to get your hot water working properly

If you have checked thermostats, immersion heaters and flow rates but still cannot restore full temperature, professional testing may be needed. A Gas Safe engineer can verify boiler temperatures, motorised valves, cylinder performance and system circulation. For fast assistance, contact us at (01420) 558993.

When your boiler ignites and then shuts down a few seconds later, it can be both frustrating and worrying. Fortunately, many of the causes are simple, safe-to-check issues that homeowners in Alton, Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Farnham and the GU35–GU9 areas can investigate before calling an engineer.

Quick checks you can do now

These basic steps are safe for most homeowners and often highlight the cause quickly:

• Check your room thermostat is set higher than the current room temperature.
• Confirm your programmer or smart controller is calling for heat.
• Make sure your boiler has adequate water pressure.
• Reboot the boiler using the manufacturer’s recommended procedure.

Understanding why your boiler cuts out

When a boiler cuts out after ignition, it’s usually because a safety device has detected a fault or a condition that prevents the boiler from running continuously. Modern boilers closely monitor flame stability, temperature, pressure and airflow, shutting down quickly if something seems unsafe. Homeowners across Alton and nearby areas often encounter similar symptoms during colder months when boilers work harder.

Common causes of rapid ignition shutdown

Several issues may cause the flame to catch briefly and then extinguish. While some reasons require a Gas Safe engineer, others are simple to rule out.

• Low water pressure: Most boilers need 1.0–1.5 bar when cold. If pressure drops too low, the boiler may ignite but shut down immediately.
• Blocked or restricted condensate pipe: Particularly during winter, a frozen or partially blocked condensate pipe can cause short cycling.
• Flame detection problems: A faulty flame sensor, poor grounding, or debris on the electrode can confuse the boiler into thinking the flame isn’t stable.
• Overheating: Sludge, circulation problems or a sticking pump can cause rapid temperature spikes, forcing the boiler to stop.
• Airflow or flue issues: Poor ventilation, fan faults or flue blockages can disrupt ignition sequence safety checks.

Checklist: What you can safely inspect

Use this quick checklist as a homeowner-friendly first pass:

• Is boiler pressure between 1.0 and 1.5 bar?
• Are radiators heating evenly or are some stone cold?
• Is the condensate pipe outdoors clear and not frozen?
• Are all vents and air grilles unobstructed?
• Have you recently bled radiators (which may reduce system pressure)?

When the issue involves airflow, flues or gas components

If you suspect anything involving the flue, combustion, or gas supply, avoid further attempts to restart the boiler. These components must only be worked on by a Gas Safe engineer. Homeowners in Alton and Bordon often call us when they hear unusual fan noises, notice the flame cutting out repeatedly, or find the boiler locking out with a fault code.

Could it be sludge or circulation problems?

Poor circulation is one of the most common reasons a boiler cuts out after ignition. If water cannot move around the system quickly enough, the boiler overheats and shuts down. Signs include noisy pipework, radiators warm only at the top, or the boiler cycling rapidly. In older homes throughout Alton and the GU34 area, sludge buildup is especially common in systems that haven’t been flushed or treated recently.

What about ignition and flame detection?

A dirty flame sensor or worn ignition electrodes can allow the boiler to light briefly but shut down because the control board cannot verify a stable flame. While you cannot safely access these components yourself, it’s useful to know when describing symptoms to a Gas Safe engineer.

How weather can play a role

Cold snaps in Bordon, Whitehill and surrounding areas often lead to frozen condensate pipes. This is one of the simplest issues to identify. If your boiler cuts out and you hear gurgling or see condensate backing up, gently warming the external condensate pipe may restore normal operation. If the pipe repeatedly freezes, it may need rerouting or insulation.

Preventing the issue from returning

Once you’ve restored heat, consider steps that reduce the chance of further problems:

• Have your boiler serviced annually.
• Check condensate pipe insulation.
• Top up corrosion inhibitor every few years.
• Consider a magnetic filter if you don’t already have one.
• Keep flue terminals clear of debris and vegetation.

Next steps if the problem continues

If your boiler cuts out repeatedly or won’t stay running, professional diagnosis is the safest option. For fast assistance from a Gas Safe engineer, contact (01420) 558993.

When your heating suddenly stops circulating properly, it is easy to assume the boiler is to blame. However, many issues in homes across Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton and Farnham are actually caused by pump or motorised valve faults. This guide explains the signs of failure, simple checks you can safely do and when it is time to call for expert support.

Quick checks you can do now

Before diving deeper, there are a few simple diagnostic steps that often point you in the right direction without needing tools.

• Check that the programmer or thermostat is calling for heat.
• Verify the boiler pressure is around 1.0–1.5 bar.
• Ensure the pump’s fused spur switch is turned on.
• Listen for vibration or humming from the pump body.
• Feel pipework on both sides of the pump to see if heat is moving.

Understanding the signs of a central heating pump not working

The pump is responsible for pushing heated water around your radiators and hot water system. When it starts to fail, typical symptoms appear gradually. Homeowners in GU35, GU34 and GU9 often report the following indicators before complete failure:

• Radiators heating unevenly or staying cold upstairs.
• A noticeable increase in boiler cycling but poor heat output.
• No sound or unusual noises from the pump body.
• Pump becoming excessively hot while pipes stay cool.

How to safely check your heating pump

Most pumps allow a few simple observations without needing to dismantle anything. These are safe for a homeowner to attempt but avoid removing covers or loosening screws.

• Feel for vibration: A running pump should gently vibrate. Total silence suggests it may be seized or not receiving power.
• Check temperature of pipes: If the flow pipe is hot but the return is cold, circulation may be restricted.
• Look for speed settings: Many pumps have a switch marked 1-3. If set to 1, try increasing to 2 or 3.
• Power confirmation: Confirm the fused spur is switched on and the fuse has not blown.

Motorised valve symptoms and simple diagnostics

If your pump seems operational but heating still fails to circulate, the issue may lie with a motorised zone valve. These small valves control flow to heating and hot water circuits. A stuck or failed valve in properties around Bordon or Alton often presents with similar symptoms to a pump failure.

• Manual lever check: Most valves have a small manual lever. If it is floppy or loose, the valve may be stuck open or closed.
• Feel the valve body: It should feel warm when engaged, cool when inactive.
• Listen for movement: When your heating switches on, you should hear a small click or whir as the valve motor moves.

Checklist: When the issue may be electrical

If both the pump and valve appear motionless, it may be an electrical control issue rather than a mechanical fault.

• Programmer clock is correctly set.
• Room thermostat is turned up above current temperature.
• Hot water cylinder thermostat is calling for heat.
• Main fuse spur has not tripped.

When your diagnostics point to a genuine fault

If the pump is noisy, excessively hot, completely seized or the valve refuses to move despite your checks, the components may require repair or replacement. Pumps often fail due to worn bearings, sludge buildup or long-term wear, while motorised valves commonly suffer motor burnout or stuck internal paddles. These issues are common in older homes across Bordon and nearby towns and generally straightforward for a professional to resolve.

Preventing future pump and valve problems

Many failures can be reduced with basic system care. Regular servicing keeps your boiler and circulation components running smoothly.

• Ensure the system is flushed or chemically treated when required.
• Keep inhibitor levels topped up.
• Book annual servicing to spot early warning signs.
• Check radiators yearly for cold spots.

Next steps: if your heating still will not circulate after these checks, contact an engineer at (01420) 558993.

The key story this week: the price cap is going up – and gas is the main culprit

Ofgem has announced that the energy price cap will rise by 13% for the period 1 July to 30 September 2026. This cap affects households on standard variable and default tariffs (so, anyone who hasn’t actively moved onto a fixed deal). Ofgem’s update makes it clear the underlying driver is higher wholesale gas prices, with electricity rising less sharply.

For most homes around Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere, that matters because gas still does the heavy lifting for space heating and hot water. Even though we’re heading into summer, the July–September cap sets the tone for what suppliers are charging right now—and it directly affects the baseline you’ll be working from as you prep for autumn.

What actually happened (and what the “price cap” really is)

The price cap isn’t a limit on your total bill. It’s a regulator-set limit on the unit rates (pence per kWh) and standing charges suppliers can charge customers on default tariffs, based on a typical consumption model. If you use more energy than “typical”, you pay more. Use less, you pay less.

There are two practical points homeowners often miss:

• The cap changes every three months. This one runs July to September.
• Ofgem also updates the Typical Domestic Consumption Values (TDCVs) used for presenting comparisons. That doesn’t change the physics of your home, but it can change how “typical bill” figures are communicated and how people benchmark their usage.

So the story isn’t just “prices are up”. It’s “the regulated default price for each unit of gas/electric is up”, which makes efficiency improvements and control settings suddenly worth more in £ terms.

Why it matters: summer is when you lock in the easiest savings

Most people only think about heating when it’s cold. But in places like Haslemere and Farnham—where older properties, extensions and mixed insulation standards are common—summer is when you can:

• get your boiler serviced without an emergency call-out
• tweak controls while you’re not relying on them daily
• set up hot water properly (often a year-round waste point)
• plan small upgrades (smart controls, TRVs, cylinder stats) before installers get booked solid in October

Because this cap increase appears to be driven largely by gas costs, any home that can reduce gas consumption—without sacrificing comfort—gets a bigger payback than it did a quarter ago.

The technical bit in plain English: where your heating money actually goes

When you pay for gas, you’re paying for heat measured in kWh. Your boiler then converts that chemical energy into hot water for your radiators (space heating) and taps/showers (domestic hot water, or DHW). Two things decide how much you spend:

• How many kWh you use (how leaky the home is, how long heating runs, hot water habits).
• How efficiently the boiler turns kWh into useful heat.

With modern condensing boilers, efficiency depends heavily on whether the boiler can condense. Condensing happens when the returning water from your radiators is cool enough for the boiler to reclaim heat from the flue gases. If your system runs at high temperatures all the time, the boiler condenses less and you effectively burn more gas for the same comfort.

Flow temperature: the single most common “silent” cost

Many boilers in homes across Alton and Liphook are set with a radiator flow temperature around 70–80°C because that was historically normal. But for a condensing gas boiler to spend more time in high-efficiency mode, many systems can run comfortably at 55–65°C (sometimes lower), provided radiators are sized appropriately and the home isn’t extremely draughty.

Lowering flow temperature is not about making the house cold. It’s about delivering the same heat more gently and efficiently. If you try this, do it in steps and check comfort room-by-room.

Heating controls: what you actually want them to do

Your thermostat, programmer and TRVs (radiator valves) should work together so the boiler fires only when needed. Common problems we see in Bordon and Whitehill include:

• thermostat placed in a hallway that’s cooler than living spaces (boiler runs longer than necessary)
• TRVs missing or stuck, meaning rooms overheat with no control
• hot water timed “all day” in summer when a short morning/evening heat-up is enough
• incorrect boiler “mode” settings (e.g., constant comfort preheat when not needed)

What it means financially: you can’t control the cap, but you can control kWh

A price cap rise means each wasted kWh costs more. In real terms, the “best” savings now are the ones that permanently reduce demand with minimal disruption.

Here are the areas that typically provide reliable payback for homeowners (and why):

1) Boiler service and combustion check

A proper service isn’t just a box-tick. It includes safety checks, cleaning key components where applicable, and ensuring the boiler is burning cleanly. A struggling boiler can short-cycle (lots of starts/stops), run poorly, and mask small faults that become expensive breakdowns when the first cold snap hits Farnham Park or the higher ground near Haslemere.

Cost-wise, a service is predictable. A winter breakdown is not—especially if it coincides with parts delays or a busy period.

2) System water quality: sludge, magnetic filters and balancing

If radiators have cold spots, take ages to warm up, or some rooms are always “last to heat”, your system may have poor circulation or sludge. That forces longer run times (more kWh) and can cause noisy operation and pump strain.

Two practical interventions we commonly recommend (depending on what we find) are:

• Magnetic filter maintenance (or fitting one if none exists), which captures circulating iron oxide.
• Balancing radiators, so heat is shared correctly across the house and the thermostat reaches temperature sooner.

These are not glamorous upgrades, but when gas prices rise, they become financially meaningful because you’re reducing run time and improving heat delivery.

3) Flow temp optimisation (without compromising comfort)

If your boiler is condensing-capable (most are), optimising the flow temperature can cut gas use noticeably—particularly in milder weather (which is exactly what you get in July–September, and then again in October/November when heating starts back up).

Homeowner approach: reduce the radiator flow temp by 5°C, live with it for 2–3 days, then reduce again if rooms still reach target temperature. If the house struggles on colder evenings, nudge it back up slightly. You’re aiming for the lowest temperature that still heats the home properly.

4) Hot water: fix the summer waste

Even when heating is off, hot water can be a year-round gas cost. Common waste points include:

• combi boilers keeping a comfort preheat on (hot water is faster, but you burn gas maintaining temperature)
• stored hot water cylinders set too hot, or with immersion/boiler schedules that run unnecessarily
• long hot water pipe runs in larger properties outside Alton or on the edges of Haslemere—you pay to heat pipework before water reaches the tap

Practical steps: check whether “preheat” is on; review hot water schedules; and ensure cylinder thermostats are sensible (and that the cylinder has decent insulation). For Legionella protection, stored hot water is typically kept at safe temperatures; don’t change cylinder settings blindly—get advice if you’re unsure.

What it means locally (Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham, Haslemere)

The same cap applies nationally, but local housing stock changes how it hits:

• Bordon and Whitehill: a mix of newer developments and older homes means some households have modern controls while others still rely on basic timers. The latter group often has the fastest wins from control upgrades and balancing.
• Liphook: many properties have extensions and altered layouts over time. That commonly creates uneven heating zones—one thermostat trying to control a house that no longer behaves like “one zone”.
• Alton: a lot of family homes where hot water demand is high. Optimising DHW settings and shower efficiency can make a noticeable difference.
• Farnham and Haslemere: more period properties and larger homes where heat loss can be higher, and where radiator sizing or pipework design sometimes limits how low you can comfortably run flow temperatures. Here, draught-proofing and targeted insulation (loft hatch, suspended floors, chimney balloons where appropriate) can be as valuable as boiler tweaks.

Locally, we also see many households with a gas boiler plus secondary heating (wood burners, electric heaters). With the cap rising and electricity unit costs typically high, it’s worth checking that any electric top-up heating isn’t quietly becoming the most expensive way to stay comfortable in shoulder seasons.

What homeowners should do next (practical steps that stand up in the real world)

Check your tariff position before July hits your direct debit

If you’re on a standard variable/default tariff, you’re exposed to this cap change. It may be worth comparing fixed deals, but be careful: the “best” option depends on your usage pattern and risk tolerance. If you do nothing, your unit rates will track the cap. If you fix, you’re betting that future caps won’t fall below your fixed rate. Also check whether changing payment method affects your rates (Ofgem highlights this), and make sure your meter readings are accurate.

Do a 30-minute heating controls audit

Most households can identify quick inefficiencies by checking:

• programmer schedules (heating and hot water)
• thermostat target temperature (avoid creeping it up “just because”)
• TRVs: are bedrooms cooler than lounges? Are unused rooms turned down?
• combi preheat/comfort mode: on or off, and do you actually need it?

If you’re not certain what you’re looking at, take photos of the controller and boiler display and get professional guidance—incorrect settings can waste energy or affect hot water performance.

Book servicing and small remedial work in summer

In our experience, homeowners in Farnham and Haslemere who wait until the first cold week often end up with limited appointment choice. Summer is when you can sort:

• annual service and safety checks
• noisy pumps/valves before they fail
• stuck TRVs
• system pressure issues and small leaks
• filter cleaning and inhibitor checks

If you’re considering a heat pump later, start with the “boring” prep now

The price cap story is about gas today—but many households in Alton, Liphook and surrounding villages are still weighing up heat pumps. If that’s you, the best first steps usually aren’t the heat pump itself. They’re the foundational measures: insulation, draught-proofing, radiator upgrades where needed, and lower-temperature heating readiness. Those steps reduce required heat output and make any future system cheaper to run.

The bottom line: higher unit prices make efficiency upgrades more valuable

Ofgem’s 13% rise is a reminder that household energy costs are still being pushed around by wholesale gas markets. You can’t control that volatility, but you can control how much energy your home needs to stay comfortable. The homes that feel this least will be the ones with well-set controls, clean and balanced systems, sensible flow temperatures, and heating that’s maintained before it becomes an emergency.

If you’d like Embassy Gas to check your boiler setup, optimise your heating controls or book a service in Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham or Haslemere, call (01420) 558993, email helpdesk@embassygas.com or book online at https://www.embassygas.com/book.

Finding that your heating works but you have no hot water can be frustrating, especially when everything else in your home seems to be running as normal. This guide explains the most common causes, simple checks you can do yourself, and when to call a Gas Safe engineer. Homeowners across areas such as Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton and Farnham often experience these symptoms during colder months, so the steps below are designed to help you narrow down the fault quickly.

Quick checks you can do now

Before assuming there is a major issue, a few simple checks can help rule out common problems.

• Make sure your hot water demand is set on the programmer.
• Confirm your boiler is not showing a fault code.
• Check that the hot water cylinder thermostat is not turned too low.
• Listen to see if the boiler fires when you turn on hot water.

Here is a quick checklist to run through:

• Water supply on?
• Boiler pressure between 1.0 and 1.5 bar?
• Any recent power cuts?
• Hot water taps fully open?

Common reasons for no hot water

It might feel confusing when radiators heat up normally, yet hot water won’t run warm. The underlying causes are often confined to the hot water side of your system rather than the heating circuit.

• Diverter valve stuck: A very common issue on combination boilers. If the diverter valve sticks in the heating position, the radiators warm up but no hot water flows.
• Faulty cylinder thermostat: In system and heat-only boilers, the cylinder stat may not be requesting heat even when the temperature drops.
• Motorised valve issue: Two-port or three-port valves control heating and hot water flow. If the hot water valve fails, you may get heating only.
• Airlock in the hot water pipework: This is more likely in older properties around GU35, GU34 and GU9 postcodes, where pipework layouts vary.
• Boiler sensor or plate heat exchanger issue: Combination boilers rely on sensors to detect demand and route heat properly. A failure here may affect hot water but not heating.

Understanding your system type

The type of heating system you have affects the likely cause. Many homes in Haslemere, Bordon and surrounding areas use combination boilers, while older homes may use a hot water cylinder. Understanding which system you own helps narrow down the fault.

• Combination boilers: If you have instant hot water with no cylinder, the most common causes include diverter valve failure or blocked plate heat exchangers.
• System or heat-only boilers: These rely on stored hot water in a cylinder. Problems often involve motorised valves, the cylinder thermostat or wiring centre connections.

No hot water but radiator heating works

This situation is common, and the phrase no hot water but radiator heating works usually points to a component dedicated to the hot water supply. With radiators functioning normally, your boiler is successfully generating heat, but the system is failing to send that heat to your taps or cylinder.

Checks specific to combination boilers

Combination boilers supply hot water on demand, so any disruption can quickly affect your taps. If homes in Liphook or Alton report heating working but no hot water, the diverter valve is often the culprit. This valve shifts between heating and hot water; when stuck, it may prioritise heating only.

Other checks include:

• Running a different hot tap to see if the issue is isolated.
• Checking for fluctuating boiler pressure, which may prevent hot water generation.
• Listening for clicking or buzzing inside the boiler, which may indicate a valve attempting to move.

Checks for system and heat-only boilers

These systems use a hot water cylinder. A common sign of a motorised valve fault is when the heating turns on even if only hot water is selected on the programmer. This suggests the valve is not directing flow correctly. Homes in older parts of Bordon and Whitehill often still rely on these systems, making these checks especially useful.

• Feel the pipes going into the cylinder; the flow pipe should heat up during a hot water demand.
• Listen for the motorised valve moving when switching between heating and hot water.
• Check the cylinder thermostat is set between 55 and 60 degrees.

When DIY checks are not enough

While many of the checks above are safe for homeowners, any internal boiler work must be handled by a Gas Safe engineer. Stuck valves, wiring faults, failed thermistors and blocked heat exchangers require proper diagnostics and tools. If you are in Haslemere, Bordon or nearby areas such as Alton or Farnham, a professional assessment will quickly determine whether the issue is mechanical, electrical or related to system flow.

Next steps

If you’ve completed the checks above and still have no hot water, you can book a professional visit at https://www.embassygas.com/book

Why Your Hot Water Runs Cold in Liss When Multiple Taps Are Used

If you live in Liss (GU35) or nearby Bordon, Alton, Liphook or Petersfield, you might notice your hot water feels luke-warm or even cold when two taps are on simultaneously. This frustrating issue often comes down to the output limits of your combi boiler and the flow rate demands of modern households.

How Combi Boiler Output Limits Affect Your Home

Combi boilers heat water directly from the mains, so they don’t require a separate hot water cylinder. While this space-saving design is perfect for many homes in Liss and Whitehill, it also means the boiler’s output rating (in kW) caps how much hot water you can run at once.

• Flow rate: A typical 24 kW combi might deliver around 9–10 litres per minute (l/min) of hot water. If two showers or taps demand 12 l/min in total, the boiler can only heat 10 l/min—leaving you with cooler water.
• Water pressure: Low incoming mains pressure in GU35 or GU32 areas will further reduce the flow rate your boiler sees, making it even harder to keep multiple outlets hot simultaneously.
• Temperature drop: The more water the boiler has to heat at once, the lower the temperature rise it can achieve. This is why the second tap often goes cold.

Liss Troubleshooting: Checking Your Boiler and Pipework

Before calling in a Gas Safe engineer, you can carry out some simple checks to see if it’s a flow-limit issue or something else:

• Test one outlet at a time: Run just your kitchen tap, then your shower. Note the temperature and flow rate. Repeat with both on to compare.
• Check incoming pressure: Look at the pressure gauge on your boiler. Ideally it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar cold. If it’s lower, topping up may help—refer to your manufacturer’s manual or ask a professional.
• Inspect filters and valves: Some combi boilers have magnetic or mesh filters on their inlet. A blocked filter can limit flow. Turn off the boiler, isolate the water, and clean the filter if you’re comfortable doing so.
• Look for pipework restrictions: In older homes around Haslemere or Hindhead, narrow pipe runs or scale buildup can choke flow. Flushing the system or repiping critical sections could make a big difference.

Optimising Hot Water Flow in a Busy Household

If you find that your combi boiler’s output is simply too low for your daily routine—especially in larger homes—you have several options:

• Upgrade to a higher-output combi boiler. A 30 kW–35 kW model can deliver 12–15 l/min, ideal for simultaneous showers and taps.
• Consider a system or regular boiler with a separate hot water cylinder if you need constant high volume for families.
• Install thermostatic flow regulators on shower heads to limit the amount of water each outlet draws, balancing your total demand.
• Use a hydrogen-combustion or condensing combi with improved heat exchanger design for a sharper temperature rise.

If you decide on a new boiler installation, our team will recommend the right size and model for your Liss home, ensuring you have enough hot water flow even on busy mornings.

When to Contact a Gas Safe Engineer

Some faults can mimic low output issues. You should call a professional if you notice:

• Fluctuating pressure readings on your boiler display.
• Strange noises or vibrations when heating water.
• No pilot light or electronic ignition failure.
• Repeated low-water-pressure lockouts.

Our certified Gas Safe engineers in Liss and surrounding GU34 regions can diagnose issues quickly and carry out any boiler servicing or repairs needed to restore reliable hot water.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Why does my shower get cold when the washing machine is on?

Both appliances draw hot water simultaneously, pushing your combi boiler beyond its flow limit. Upgrading to a higher-output model or staggering usage can help.

2. Can I increase flow rate myself?

You can check and clean filters or adjust pressure, but altering internal settings or pipework should be done by a qualified engineer to comply with regulations.

3. Will a system boiler solve this issue?

System boilers work with a hot water cylinder, offering higher stored volume. They’re ideal if you need multiple outlets and lots of hot water back-to-back.

4. Do I need boiler cover if I upgrade?

Yes. Regular maintenance protects your investment. Explore our Boiler cover plans for peace of mind and priority breakdown response.

If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

If your boiler or hot water cylinder is suddenly letting water out through the pipe outside, the pressure relief valve may be doing its job—or it may be signalling a fault. Many homeowners around Petersfield, Bordon, Liphook and Alton come across this issue at some point, and it’s often simpler to diagnose than it appears.

What the pressure relief valve does

The pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety component designed to release excess pressure so your system stays within safe operating limits. When pressure rises beyond the valve’s set point, it opens briefly to discharge water. Occasional tiny releases during heating can be normal; constant dripping is not.

Quick checks you can do now

Before calling out an engineer, you can safely carry out a few simple checks. These won’t fix underlying issues, but they can help you understand what is happening.

• Look at your boiler’s pressure gauge when cold and when hot.
• Check whether your filling loop is fully closed.
• Observe how much water is dripping from the discharge pipe.
• Note whether pressure rises steadily while the heating is on.

Common reasons pressure relief valve leaks occur

There are several causes behind a PRV releasing water, and they vary between boiler systems and unvented cylinders used throughout homes in Whitehill, Farnham and the wider GU35, GU34 and GU9 postcodes.

1. The system pressure is too high

If the pressure climbs above the valve’s threshold—usually around 3 bar—the valve opens to protect the system. This may happen when the boiler is incorrectly topped up or when something is forcing pressure to rise abnormally.

Checklist for homeowners:

• Is the pressure above 2 bar when the system is cold?
• Does the pressure shoot up when the heating comes on?
• Has the system been recently topped up?

2. A stuck or faulty filling loop

A partly open filling loop allows small amounts of water into the system continuously. This gradually increases pressure until the PRV discharges. It’s one of the most common causes we see when visiting homes in and around Bordon.

Ensure both taps of the filling loop are fully closed. The handle position can be misleading, so turn them firmly into the closed position to be certain.

3. Expansion vessel issues

Your expansion vessel absorbs pressure increases when water heats and expands. If its internal air charge has dropped or the diaphragm has failed, the pressure has nowhere to go, forcing the PRV to open. Signs include sharp spikes in pressure when heating starts and rapid drops when heating stops.

4. A worn or damaged PRV

Once a PRV has discharged heavily, debris or limescale may prevent it sealing properly. This results in a constant drip even after the root cause is resolved. A faulty PRV generally needs replacing rather than repairing.

5. Heat exchanger faults

A pinhole in the boiler’s plate heat exchanger can allow mains water to seep into the sealed system. Because mains water pressure is higher, the system pressure gradually rises until the PRV releases water. This requires a Gas Safe engineer for diagnosis, but homeowners can often spot the pattern: a slow, steady rise in pressure even when the boiler is off.

6. Unvented cylinder pressure problems

If you have an unvented hot water cylinder, additional safety valves are present. The TPR (temperature and pressure relief valve) may discharge if either the pressure or the temperature climbs too high. Causes may include expansion vessel faults, blocked expansion pathways or issues with the inlet control group. These cylinders must only be worked on by qualified engineers with the correct certification.

How to reduce the risk of recurring leaks

Preventing pressure relief valve leaks is largely about routine maintenance and keeping an eye on system behaviour.

• Check your pressure gauge occasionally.
• Ensure your filling loop remains shut at all times.
• Book annual servicing to keep expansion vessels healthy.
• Act early—small drips often signal fixable issues.

When it’s time to call a professional

If the pressure rises sharply, the dripping becomes constant or you notice water staining near the discharge point, it’s wise to get the system inspected. Many homeowners in Petersfield and nearby towns such as Liphook and Farnham call once they see repeated discharges because the underlying fault rarely disappears on its own.

Understanding what’s happening helps you discuss the issue clearly with your engineer, but diagnosing and repairing deeper faults—especially anything involving gas appliances or unvented cylinders—must be left to trained professionals.

Next steps: If your pressure relief valve won’t stop dripping, book a professional assessment at https://www.embassygas.com/book

Hard water is a fact of life across much of Hampshire, especially in areas like Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, and Farnham. While it’s perfectly safe to use, the minerals it contains can lead to limescale forming inside your heating system. Over time, this scale can restrict water flow, reduce boiler efficiency, and shorten the lifespan of key components. Understanding how boiler scale develops and what you can do to prevent it will help keep your system running smoothly.

Quick checks you can do now

• Run a hot tap and check if the flow seems weaker than usual – a common early symptom of scale.
• Look for white chalky deposits around taps, shower heads, or kettle elements.
• Listen for kettling noises from your boiler, particularly when heating up.
• Check radiator performance for cold spots or slow warm-up.
• Review your last boiler service notes for signs of internal scale.

What is boiler scale build-up?

Boiler scale build-up occurs when dissolved minerals in hard water, mainly calcium and magnesium, are heated and solidify on internal surfaces. This layer of scale acts like insulation, making your boiler work harder to heat water. Homes across GU35, GU34, and GU9 postcodes often see this problem due to naturally high mineral content in local water supplies.

Left unmanaged, scale can accumulate inside heat exchangers, pipework, and hot water cylinders. Even a thin layer can reduce efficiency and increase energy use, so it’s worth dealing with it early.

Why water hardness matters

Hard water isn’t harmful to drink, but it can be tough on boilers. When heated, the minerals crystallise and attach to metal surfaces. Hampshire is known for its chalk geology, which naturally produces harder water. Households in Bordon and neighbouring towns often notice limescale on taps and shower screens – a sign the same thing could be happening inside the heating system.

The harder your water, the faster scale can form. In some cases, homeowners can see noticeable build-up in as little as a year without proper treatment.

Early warning signs of scale forming

Spotting scale early can make a big difference. Watch for these symptoms:

• Kettling noises – a popping, banging, or bubbling sound as water boils unevenly inside a scaled heat exchanger.
• Reduced hot water flow – particularly at taps or showers furthest from the boiler.
• Hot water temperature fluctuations.
• Boiler cycling on and off more frequently.
• Higher-than-usual energy bills.

If you notice one or more of these signs, it’s worth investigating further before small issues become expensive repairs.

How to prevent scale in the first place

The best defence against scale is stopping it before it forms. Several options can help protect your boiler and plumbing:

• System filters: A scale-reducing filter fitted on the incoming cold-water supply helps trap minerals before they enter the boiler.
• Water softeners: These remove hardness minerals entirely, offering a long-term solution for homes in hard water zones.
• Inline scale inhibitors: These devices alter how minerals crystallise, preventing them sticking inside the system.
• Regular servicing: Annual boiler servicing allows engineers to spot early signs of scale and take corrective action.
• Proper system water treatment: Inhibitors added during maintenance help protect against corrosion and scale formation.

Treating existing scale build-up

If scale has already formed, there are safe and effective ways to remove it. A professional Gas Safe engineer can use techniques such as descaling chemicals or powerflushing to break down mineral deposits and restore performance. In Bordon and surrounding areas, this is a common job due to locally hard water.

Descaling may involve circulating a cleaning solution through the boiler to dissolve scale deposits. For systems with extensive build-up, a full powerflush may be recommended to clean radiators, pipework, and the boiler together. Once clean, ongoing treatment prevents the problem returning.

Long-term benefits of keeping scale under control

Taking steps to prevent and manage scale delivers several practical benefits:

• More consistent hot water temperature.
• Reduced boiler wear and tear.
• Lower energy bills due to improved efficiency.
• Quieter boiler operation.
• A longer lifespan for your heating system.

For many households, especially in hard-water postcodes like GU35, GU34, and GU9, a small investment in scale prevention quickly pays for itself.

Next steps

If you’re worried about scale affecting your boiler, book a professional inspection today at https://www.embassygas.com/book

Why Heating Pressure Falls on Freezing Mornings in Headley Down

If you live in Headley Down, you might notice your boiler’s pressure gauge dipping after a particularly cold night. This common issue often stems from contraction leaks – tiny gaps that open up when metal pipes and radiators cool down and shrink. In this article, we’ll explain what contraction leaks are, how to spot them, and the steps you can take to prevent pressure drops in your heating system.

What Are Contraction Leaks?

Contraction leaks occur when metal components in your central heating system contract in low temperatures. As pipes, valves or radiator joints cool, the metal shrinks slightly, creating micro-gaps. Even a hairline gap can allow water to escape, causing your boiler pressure to fall. By day, as everything warms up, these gaps often close again, making leaks hard to detect.

Key Factors in Headley Down Properties

• Older pipework: Many homes in Headley Down have been extended or updated over the years, leading to joints of different materials and ages.
• Exposed pipe routes: Loft or garage installations can leave pipes vulnerable to draughts, speeding up cooling overnight.
• High-pressure systems: If your heating was recently upgraded or you’ve had a new boiler installation, it may run at a slightly higher pressure, making even small leaks more noticeable.

Spotting the Signs of a Contraction Leak

Early detection can save you from a complete heating breakdown on a frosty morning. Keep an eye out for:

• Pressure Gauge Drops: A fall below 1.0 bar on your boiler’s gauge after a cold night.
• Visible Damp Patches: Look under pipework in lofts or utility spaces, especially where pipes run through joists.
• Drips Around Radiator Valves: Check valve ends and wall brackets, which tighten or loosen as metal moves.
• Frequent Refill Needs: If you’re regularly topping up your system each morning, a small leak is likely to blame.

DIY Troubleshooting for Homeowners

Before calling in a professional, try these steps to narrow down the culprit:

• Re-pressurise Safely: Follow your boiler manual to bleed radiators and open the filling loop until the gauge reads 1.2–1.5 bar. Monitor this through a cold night.
• Visual Inspection at Dawn: First thing in the morning, check likely leak points – radiator valves, pipe joints, and under-wall pipe entry points.
• Bleed Your Radiators: Air trapped in a cold system can exaggerate pressure drops. Use a radiator key to release air until water flows steadily.
• Thermal Imaging Phone Apps: Some smartphone gadgets detect cold spots along pipes, highlighting where leaks may be opening.
• Check External Vents: Ensure any outdoor expansion vessels or flue terminals haven’t iced up, which can affect system pressure readings.

When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer

Small DIY efforts can handle minor bleeds and temporary re-pressurisation. However, if you spot signs of water escaping or your pressure continues falling below 1.0 bar, it’s time to contact a professional. A qualified Gas Safe engineer will:

• Locate and repair micro-leaks using leak sealant or replace faulty joints.
• Inspect pipe insulation and recommend upgrades to prevent rapid cooling.
• Perform a full boiler servicing to ensure valves and safety devices are working correctly.

In the Headley Down and Bordon area, our engineers are experienced in pinpointing contraction leaks, working across nearby communities like Alton and Liphook to keep heating systems running smoothly.

Long-Term Prevention Tips

Consistent maintenance can reduce pressure drop issues and extend your heating system’s lifespan:

• Upgrade Pipe Insulation: Adding lagging to accessible pipes in cold lofts or garages stops rapid thermal contraction.
• Install an Inhibitor: System corrosion inhibitors slow down pipework degradation, reducing leak risk over time.
• Consider a New Boiler: If your boiler’s over 10 years old, modern condensing models maintain stable pressures better and are more efficient. Learn more about our new boiler installations.
• Sign Up for Cover: A comprehensive boiler cover plan can give peace of mind, offering emergency call-outs if leaks ever cause a major pressure loss.
• Annual Check-Ups: Book an annual check-up to catch worn hoses, valves and seals before they let water escape.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my boiler pressure drop only after a cold night?

Cold temperatures cause metal pipes to contract and form tiny gaps at joints and valves. These micro-leaks allow a bit of water to escape, leading to pressure loss.

Can I top up my central heating system myself?

Yes, you can re-pressurise by following your boiler’s manual. Always shut off the boiler before adjusting the filling loop and aim for 1.2–1.5 bar.

How do I know if I need pipe insulation?

If pipes feel very cold first thing in the morning or you notice condensation, adding foam lagging can reduce contraction and prevent leaks.

Is it expensive to fix contraction leaks?

Minor leaks can often be sealed quickly, but costs rise if pipe sections or fittings need replacing. A local heating engineer can provide an accurate quote after inspection.

If you need help with your heating or boiler issues, our local engineers are here to assist. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.