When your heating suddenly stops circulating properly, it is easy to assume the boiler is to blame. However, many issues in homes across Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton and Farnham are actually caused by pump or motorised valve faults. This guide explains the signs of failure, simple checks you can safely do and when it is time to call for expert support.
Quick checks you can do now
Before diving deeper, there are a few simple diagnostic steps that often point you in the right direction without needing tools.
- Check that the programmer or thermostat is calling for heat.
- Verify the boiler pressure is around 1.0–1.5 bar.
- Ensure the pump’s fused spur switch is turned on.
- Listen for vibration or humming from the pump body.
- Feel pipework on both sides of the pump to see if heat is moving.
Understanding the signs of a central heating pump not working
The pump is responsible for pushing heated water around your radiators and hot water system. When it starts to fail, typical symptoms appear gradually. Homeowners in GU35, GU34 and GU9 often report the following indicators before complete failure:
- Radiators heating unevenly or staying cold upstairs.
- A noticeable increase in boiler cycling but poor heat output.
- No sound or unusual noises from the pump body.
- Pump becoming excessively hot while pipes stay cool.
How to safely check your heating pump
Most pumps allow a few simple observations without needing to dismantle anything. These are safe for a homeowner to attempt but avoid removing covers or loosening screws.
- Feel for vibration: A running pump should gently vibrate. Total silence suggests it may be seized or not receiving power.
- Check temperature of pipes: If the flow pipe is hot but the return is cold, circulation may be restricted.
- Look for speed settings: Many pumps have a switch marked 1-3. If set to 1, try increasing to 2 or 3.
- Power confirmation: Confirm the fused spur is switched on and the fuse has not blown.
Motorised valve symptoms and simple diagnostics
If your pump seems operational but heating still fails to circulate, the issue may lie with a motorised zone valve. These small valves control flow to heating and hot water circuits. A stuck or failed valve in properties around Bordon or Alton often presents with similar symptoms to a pump failure.
- Manual lever check: Most valves have a small manual lever. If it is floppy or loose, the valve may be stuck open or closed.
- Feel the valve body: It should feel warm when engaged, cool when inactive.
- Listen for movement: When your heating switches on, you should hear a small click or whir as the valve motor moves.
Checklist: When the issue may be electrical
If both the pump and valve appear motionless, it may be an electrical control issue rather than a mechanical fault.
- Programmer clock is correctly set.
- Room thermostat is turned up above current temperature.
- Hot water cylinder thermostat is calling for heat.
- Main fuse spur has not tripped.
When your diagnostics point to a genuine fault
If the pump is noisy, excessively hot, completely seized or the valve refuses to move despite your checks, the components may require repair or replacement. Pumps often fail due to worn bearings, sludge buildup or long-term wear, while motorised valves commonly suffer motor burnout or stuck internal paddles. These issues are common in older homes across Bordon and nearby towns and generally straightforward for a professional to resolve.
Preventing future pump and valve problems
Many failures can be reduced with basic system care. Regular servicing keeps your boiler and circulation components running smoothly.
- Ensure the system is flushed or chemically treated when required.
- Keep inhibitor levels topped up.
- Book annual servicing to spot early warning signs.
- Check radiators yearly for cold spots.
Next steps: if your heating still will not circulate after these checks, contact an engineer at (01420) 558993.