Author: Embassy Gas

  • Heating System Pressure Too Low in Winter? Seasonal Contraction in Headley Down Explained

    As the temperatures dip during winter in Headley Down, many homeowners notice their heating system pressure dropping unexpectedly. This nuisance can leave radiators lukewarm and your home feeling chilly. In this guide, we explore how seasonal contraction affects properties in Headley Down, troubleshoot low-pressure issues, and advise when to call a Gas Safe engineer.

    Why Boiler Pressure Drops in Winter

    Seasonal Contraction Explained

    During colder months, metal pipes and components within your heating system contract slightly due to temperature changes. This contraction can reduce the volume of water circulating through the system, causing a noticeable drop in pressure. In Headley Down’s fluctuating winter climate, this effect is more pronounced.

    Typical Signs of Low Pressure

    • Cold spots on radiators, especially at the top.
    • Boiler displaying an error code related to pressure.
    • Unusual noises from the boiler or pipes.
    • Frequent need to re-pressurise the system.

    Practical Steps to Troubleshoot Low Pressure

    1. Check the Pressure Gauge

    Locate the boiler’s pressure gauge—typically on the front panel—and ensure the reading is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar when the system is cold. If it falls below 1.0 bar, you’ll need to top up the system.

    2. Topping Up the System

    Find the filling loop beneath your boiler. Open the valves slowly to allow water into the system, watching the gauge until it reaches around 1.2 bar. Close the valves tightly to prevent any leaks.

    3. Inspect for Leaks

    Visible puddles or damp spots around radiators, pipe joints, or the boiler itself indicate a leak. Even a small drip can lead to repeated pressure loss over time.

    4. Bleed Your Radiators

    Air trapped in radiators can also cause pressure fluctuations. Use a radiator key to release air until water flows steadily, then recheck the boiler pressure and top up if necessary.

    When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer

    If you experience persistent pressure drops, you may have an underlying fault such as a hidden leak or a failing component. Our certified Gas Safe engineers in Headley Down can perform a detailed inspection and recommend the best solution. We also recommend regular boiler servicing to keep your system running efficiently.

    Upgrading Your System for Winter Reliability

    If you’re battling constant pressure issues, it might be time to consider a new boiler installation. Modern condensing boilers maintain more stable pressures and can handle seasonal temperature changes more effectively.

    Benefits of Boiler Cover

    To protect against unexpected repairs and breakdowns during chilly winters, explore our comprehensive boiler cover. Plans include call-outs, parts, and labour, ensuring peace of mind across Headley Down, Bordon (GU35), Liphook, and Farnham (GU32).

    Why Choose Us in Headley Down and Surrounding Areas

    Embassy Gas has been serving Headley Down and nearby towns such as Petersfield, Bordon, Liphook, and Farnham for years. Our local knowledge of winter weather patterns and building characteristics means we deliver targeted solutions that keep your home warm and safe.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Why does my boiler pressure keep falling in winter?

    Cold weather causes pipes and system components to contract, reducing water volume and causing pressure drops. Regular topping up and maintenance help mitigate this effect.

    Can I top up the pressure myself?

    Yes, you can use the filling loop under your boiler to re-pressurise the system. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and close valves securely after topping up.

    How often should I have my boiler serviced?

    We recommend annual servicing by a Gas Safe engineer to ensure safe operation, optimal efficiency, and reduced risk of breakdowns during winter.

    If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

  • Why Your Boiler Makes a Repetitive Clicking Noise: Gas Valve Cycling in Passfield Homes

    Understanding the Clicking Noise in Your Passfield Boiler

    Hearing a repetitive clicking noise from your boiler can be unsettling, especially on chilly mornings in Passfield. That steady “click… click… click” often points to a process known as gas valve cycling. In homes across the GU30 postcode area, it’s a controlled operation where the valve opens and closes to regulate the flow of gas into the burner. While it’s a normal function to some extent, excessive or irregular clicking can signal underlying issues requiring attention.

    Whether you’re in a cosy cottage near Liphook, a modern home in Petersfield or a semi in Bordon, understanding what’s going on under the boiler casing helps you decide if it’s a quick fix or time to call in a Gas Safe engineer. Below we’ll unpack the causes, guide you through basic troubleshooting, and highlight when professional help is the best choice.

    What is Gas Valve Cycling?

    Gas valve cycling refers to the opening and closing of the gas valve in small increments to maintain a stable flame and optimal boiler temperature. The boiler’s control board signals the valve to adjust gas flow, ensuring efficiency and safety. A few clicks during ignition are perfectly normal—this is the system testing pressure and firing the burner. However, if your boiler repeats this clicking every few seconds or minutes, it can interrupt heating flow and may indicate a fault.

    Common Causes of Repetitive Clicking

    • Thermostat Compatibility: Incorrect or ageing thermostats can send erratic signals, causing the gas valve to cycle more than necessary.
    • Pressure Switch Malfunction: The pressure switch ensures safe combustion. If it fails or the connecting pipes are blocked by debris or ice, your boiler may click repeatedly as it tries to reset.
    • Valve Actuator or Coil Fault: The actuator moves the valve; if it stalls or the coil wears out, the control board will repeatedly attempt cycling, leading to that continuous clicking.
    • Voltage Fluctuations: Electrical issues, such as surges or wiring faults, can cause the valve to receive inconsistent power, triggering frequent attempts to open and close.
    • Control Board Errors: Modern boilers rely on circuit boards. A glitch or damaged board may misinterpret sensor inputs and force the valve to cycle.

    Troubleshooting Steps for Homeowners

    Before booking a service, you can attempt a few safe checks. Always switch off power at the isolator and allow the unit to cool for 30 minutes before handling any parts.

    • Reset the Boiler: Turn the boiler off, wait 30 seconds, then switch it back on. A reset can clear transient faults.
    • Check Water Pressure: Locate the pressure gauge (usually between 1 and 2 bar when cold). If it’s below 1 bar or above 2.5 bar, use the filling loop or bleed radiators to correct pressure.
    • Inspect Condensate Pipe: In winter, condensate waste pipes in GU30 and GU35 can freeze. Thaw gently with warm water—never hot water directly on plastic piping.
    • Test the Thermostat: Replace batteries or temporarily bypass the thermostat by setting the boiler’s own temperature controls higher than room temperature to see if the clicking stops.
    • Listen for Valve Location: Identify whether the clicking is coming from the gas valve area. If the noise moves or becomes a grinding sound, it’s likely mechanical wear inside the valve actuator.

    If these steps don’t reduce the clicking or if you’re unsure at any stage, it’s time to book a boiler servicing with a qualified Gas Safe engineer in Passfield or nearby Hindhead.

    Preventative Maintenance and Boiler Cover

    Regular maintenance is vital to avoid surprises in winter. An annual service by a Gas Safe engineer can spot valve wear, electrical faults, and pressure issues before they cause repetitive clicking or full heating breakdown. Consider taking out a boiler cover plan to spread the cost of repairs and parts replacement. With cover, you’ll have peace of mind that any unexpected noise or breakdown in Passfield, Liphook or Hindhead is dealt with swiftly.

    When to Call a Professional Gas Safe Engineer

    If your boiler continues clicking after basic checks, or if you notice additional symptoms—like the flame repeatedly going out, error codes on the display, leaks, or unusual smells—it’s crucial to seek expert help. Gas appliances can be dangerous if not handled correctly. Our Gas Safe engineers in Passfield and the wider GU30 region are trained to:

    • Diagnose control board and sensor issues
    • Replace faulty valves, actuators, or coils
    • Repair or replace pressure switches
    • Ensure safe gas connections and combustion
    • Perform a full safety check post-repair

    For any new installations or system upgrades, we also provide new boiler installation services, ensuring you get a high-efficiency model suited to your home’s needs in Petersfield, Bordon or beyond.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    • Why does my boiler click even when the heating is off?
      Modern boilers occasionally cycle the gas valve to maintain pilot light checks or to clear air from the system. If it’s excessive, have the thermostat and sensors inspected.
    • Is it dangerous if my boiler clicks continuously?
      Continuous clicking alone isn’t immediately dangerous, but it can signal unsafe combustion or electrical faults. Always err on the side of caution and schedule a service.
    • Can I fix the gas valve myself?
      No. Gas valves are critical safety components and must only be handled by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

    If you need help with a persistent boiler clicking noise, our local Gas Safe engineers in Passfield are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Passfield, Liphook, Petersfield and surrounding areas.

  • Why Your Radiators Stay Cold After a System Drain Down in Ropley

    Why Your Radiators Stay Cold After a System Drain Down in Ropley

    Experiencing cold radiators after draining your heating system can be frustrating for homeowners in Ropley. Whether you’ve drained down for maintenance or to replace a component, trapped air can prevent hot water from circulating properly. In this guide, we explain why this happens and provide practical steps to get your radiators heating up evenly again.

    What Causes Trapped Air in Your Heating System?

    During a system drain down—common when flushing out sludge or replacing a boiler—air can enter the pipework. Because air is lighter than water, it naturally rises and collects at the top of radiators or in high points within your plumbing. In Ropley (GU34), older properties with several storeys or long runs of pipework may be particularly prone to developing air locks.

    Signs of an Air Lock After Draining Your System

    • Radiators are lukewarm or cold at the top but warm at the bottom.
    • Gurgling or bubbling noises in pipes and radiators.
    • Uneven heating across different radiators in your home.
    • Low system pressure shown on the boiler gauge.

    Step-by-Step Troubleshooting for Ropley Homeowners

    1. Check Your System Pressure: Before you do anything, make sure your boiler pressure gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar when cold. Low pressure can indicate that water hasn’t refilled the system properly after the drain down.
    2. Bleed Your Radiators: Starting with the radiator closest to the boiler, use a radiator key to open the bleed valve slightly. As air escapes, you’ll hear a hissing sound. Once water starts to trickle out, close the valve. Repeat this on every radiator until you have consistent water flow.
    3. Re-pressurise Your System: After bleeding, you’ll need to top up the water pressure. Locate the filling loop on your boiler and slowly open the valves until the gauge reaches 1.2 bar. Close the valves securely to avoid leaks.
    4. Energy-Efficient Flush: If cold spots persist, debris may still be lodged in pipework. Consider scheduling a powerflush to clear sludge and rust. This service can be arranged with a new boiler installation or as a standalone treatment if your system is older.
    5. Test the System: Turn your heating on and check each radiator. They should warm evenly from top to bottom. If you still find cold patches, repeat the bleeding process or move on to more advanced checks.

    When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer

    If you’ve bled and re-pressurised your radiators but still face cold sections, it’s time to consult a professional. In Ropley and nearby areas like Bordon, Alton, Liphook and Petersfield, our certified Gas Safe engineers can diagnose stubborn air locks or hidden leaks. Regular boiler servicing helps prevent issues before they escalate, keeping your heating reliable all winter.

    Preventing Air Locks in Future

    • Arrange annual boiler servicing to check for pressure loss and trapped air.
    • Install an automatic air vent at high points in your system to release small air pockets without manual bleeding.
    • Consider comprehensive boiler cover to protect against unexpected breakdowns and cover repair costs.
    • When upgrading, invest in a modern combi or system boiler—our experts in Farnham, Petersfield and Whitehill can advise on the best option and handle your new boiler installation.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Why does my radiator only heat at the bottom?

    Air trapped at the top prevents hot water from rising and filling the upper part of the radiator. Bleeding releases the air, allowing the water to flow freely.

    How often should I bleed my radiators?

    Most homeowners bleed radiators once or twice a year—typically before the heating season begins and after any major system work like a drain down.

    Can an air lock cause boiler damage?

    While small air pockets aren’t usually harmful, severe air locks can force your boiler to work harder, potentially triggering safety shutdowns and increasing wear.

    What if bleeding doesn’t fix the cold spots?

    If cold areas persist after bleeding, you may need a powerflush or further investigation by a Gas Safe engineer to check for blockages or pipe corrosion.

    If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

  • Why Your Boiler Takes Longer to Reach Operating Temperature: Understanding Scaling in Bordon Homes

    Why Your Boiler Is Slow to Heat Up in Bordon

    If your boiler seems to be dragging its feet when heating your home in Bordon or the wider GU35 area, scaling—or limescale buildup—could be the culprit. Hard water carries minerals that deposit inside your boiler and pipework over time, reducing efficiency and forcing the system to work harder and take longer. In Alton, Liphook and Farnham, homeowners often spot the same problem: radiators taking ages to warm up or heating breakdowns on colder mornings.

    What Is Scaling and How Does It Form?

    Scaling happens when calcium and magnesium minerals in hard water precipitate out as the water heats. Inside a boiler’s heat exchanger, these minerals crystallise, forming a chalky layer of limescale. Over months or years, this layer thickens, acting like insulation and preventing efficient heat transfer.

    • Hard water regions: Bordon, Petersfield and Haslemere homes are especially prone.
    • Temperature cycles: Repeated heating and cooling encourages deposit formation.
    • Inadequate maintenance: Skipping servicing allows scale to build unchecked.

    How Scaling Affects Boiler Performance

    Even a thin layer of scale can reduce heat transfer efficiency by up to 10%. As your boiler struggles to reach its setpoint:

    • Heat-up time increases, making mornings feel colder.
    • Gas consumption rises, hiking up energy bills.
    • Wear and tear accelerates, leading to more frequent breakdowns.

    In GU34 and GU30 postcodes, customers sometimes notice odd noises from the boiler as pockets of steam escape under the rough scale surface. This can indicate a more advanced stage of scaling, putting additional strain on components.

    Signs Your Boiler May Be Affected by Scaling

    • Slow start-up: Radiators gradually warm rather than heating quickly.
    • Cold spots on radiators even after prolonged use.
    • Frequent boiler cycling or pressure fluctuations.
    • Higher than usual gas bills without a change in usage.
    • Gurgling or banging sounds as water struggles through narrow passages.

    DIY Troubleshooting Steps

    Before you call in a professional Gas Safe engineer, try these basic checks to rule out simpler issues:

    • Bleed your radiators: Use a radiator key to let trapped air escape. Air pockets can mimic scale symptoms.
    • Check system pressure: Ideally between 1 and 1.5 bar when cold. Low pressure forces the boiler to work harder.
    • Inspect the condensate trap: If it’s blocked, the boiler may struggle to fire up correctly. Carefully remove and clean it.
    • Flush a radiator: Isolate one radiator and attach a hose to flush out debris. If water runs clear, the rest of the system might benefit from a powerflush.

    Professional Solutions for Scaling

    If DIY steps don’t resolve the delays, it’s time for professional intervention:

    • Powerflushing: A rapid, high-flow chemical clean that removes scale, rust and sludge from pipework and radiators. This can restore efficiency in homes across Whitehill, Liss and Grayshott.
    • Chemical inhibitors: Installing corrosion and limescale inhibitors prevents future buildup. They circulate in the system to protect against mineral deposits.
    • Magnetic or centrifugal filters: These trap sludge and scale fragments, ensuring cleaner water circulates. Ideal for sustaining performance after a new boiler installation or an older system.
    • Component exchange: In severe cases, replacing a scaled-up heat exchanger can be more cost-effective than repeated breakdown repairs.
    • Routine boiler servicing: Annual checks spot early scale formation and maintain system pressure. Keeping your warranty and protecting efficiency.

    Preventing Scaling in Your Home

    Once you’ve cleared existing scale, take steps to stop it coming back:

    • Install a water softener: Especially useful for households in Hindhead and Petersfield districts with very hard water.
    • Use magnetic filters: Protect your boiler and radiators by catching fine particles before they settle.
    • Maintain regular service intervals: An annual Gas Safe engineer visit can detect early-stage scaling.
    • Monitor chemical inhibitor levels: Top up as recommended by your installer to keep water chemistry in balance.
    • Keep system pressure stable: Check monthly and adjust with a filling loop if needed.

    When to Call a Professional

    If you’ve tried bleeding radiators and flushing individual units but your boiler still takes ages to reach operating temperature, or if you hear unusual noises, it’s time to engage a qualified engineer. Unresolved scaling can lead to full boiler failure and expensive replacements.

    For peace of mind, consider a comprehensive boiler cover plan. This ensures priority response for breakdowns and covers the cost of parts and labour when scale-related issues strike.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. How often should I powerflush my heating system?

    Typically, every 5–7 years, unless you live in an area with extremely hard water, such as Petersfield or Hindhead, in which case a 3–5 year interval may be better.

    2. Can I treat scaling with vinegar or household acids?

    Household acids can damage boiler components and invalidate warranties. Only use chemicals approved for central heating systems and consult a Gas Safe engineer.

    3. Will a new boiler solve scaling issues?

    A new boiler can run more efficiently, but if the system pipework is full of scale, problems will persist. Always clean the system before installation of a new boiler.

    4. How do I know if my water is hard?

    Local water companies can provide hardness levels for your GU35 or GU32 postcode. Alternatively, a simple home test kit from a DIY store will indicate mineral content.

    If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

  • Why Your Heating Randomly Switches Off at Night in Selborne

    If your heating randomly switches off overnight, it can leave you shivering in the early hours and wondering what’s gone wrong. In Selborne (GU34), older homes often have thermostats placed in draught-prone spots or near windows, leading to misreadings and unexpected cut-outs. Before you panic and book a full heating breakdown repair, try our practical advice tailored for properties in Selborne and nearby areas like Bordon (GU35), Alton, Petersfield and Farnham.

    Why Your Thermostat Can Misread Night-Time Temperatures

    Drafts and Sensor Location

    Thermostats sense the air temperature close to their mounting point. If yours is sited near a window, door or cold wall, a night-time draught can trick it into thinking the room is colder than it really is. The boiler then shuts off, believing it’s reached the set limit. Check for worn seals on windows or gaps under doors in bedrooms and landing areas.

    Old or Faulty Thermostat Components

    Many homes in Selborne still use analogue or early digital thermostats. Over time, the internal sensor can drift or fail. You might notice erratic behaviour, such as your heating turning off at inconsistent temperatures. If your thermostat is over 10 years old or shows signs of wear, consider upgrading to a more reliable model.

    Incorrect Programming or Settings

    Modern thermostats allow for complex schedules, but an unintended programme can lead to overnight shutdowns. A simple typo in the timer settings could mean the heating is set to switch off at midnight, only to restart at dawn. Double-check your timer and temperature hold functions to ensure they match your routine.

    Step-by-Step Troubleshooting for Selborne Homeowners

    • Inspect for Draughts: Walk around the ground and first floor at night with a lit candle. Watch for flickers near windows, doors or skirting boards that indicate air movement.
    • Move or Shield the Thermostat: If possible, fit a simple draught shield or move the thermostat to a more central wall away from cold spots.
    • Replace Batteries: Low batteries in a wireless thermostat can cause false readings. Swap them out annually to stay on the safe side.
    • Reset the Thermostat: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to revert to factory settings. Reprogram your desired schedule so you know exactly when the heating will run.
    • Check Radiator Balance: Cold radiators can trick the thermostat if they’re far away. Bleeding radiators and balancing valves helps distribute heat evenly.

    When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer

    After you’ve ruled out obvious draughts and programming issues, persistent cut-outs may point to deeper boiler or controls faults. Low system pressure, a failing motorised valve or a faulty PCB can all cause night-time shutdowns. If you’re not comfortable diagnosing these technical parts, it’s best to call a qualified professional.

    Our local Gas Safe engineers cover heater repairs, boiler cover plans and emergency call-outs across Selborne, Bordon and beyond. We’ll inspect your boiler controls, check system pressure and swap out any defective parts to restore reliable night-time heating.

    Preventative Measures to Keep Your Heating Running Smoothly

    • Annual Boiler Servicing: Book a comprehensive boiler servicing visit to catch issues early and maintain efficiency.
    • Thermostat Upgrade: Installing a modern, programmable or smart thermostat can eliminate misreadings and let you adjust settings via an app.
    • Home Insulation: Improve loft and cavity wall insulation to stabilise indoor temperatures and reduce draughts that fool your thermostat.
    • Radiator Care: Bleed and balance radiators each season so heat reaches every room evenly, preventing cold spots around your thermostat.
    • Consider Replacement: If your boiler is over 15 years old, explore a new boiler installation to benefit from improved controls, better efficiency and peace of mind.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q: Why does my heating only cut out at night?
    A: Night-time drafts, thermostat misplacement or incorrect schedules often explain overnight shutdowns. Cooler air near a window or a midnight off-setting in the programme can trick the sensor.

    Q: Can I relocate my thermostat to improve readings?
    A: Yes. Moving it to a central, draught-free wall away from doors, windows and direct sunlight will give more accurate room temperatures.

    Q: How often should I get my boiler serviced?
    A: We recommend annual boiler servicing to ensure safe and efficient operation, reduce breakdowns and keep warranties valid.

    If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Selborne, Bordon, Alton, Petersfield and surrounding areas.

  • Why Your Boiler Trips During High Demand in Petersfield

    Understanding Why Boilers Trip During Peak Usage

    If your boiler in Petersfield cuts out every time you turn on multiple radiators or hot taps, you’re not alone. During cold snaps or busy mornings, the sudden spike in demand can overload the electrical circuits that power your heating system. This often leads to a trip or shutdown to protect internal components from damage.

    What Exactly Is an Electrical Overload Fault?

    An electrical overload fault happens when the current flowing through your boiler’s wiring exceeds the safe limit of its circuit breaker or fuse. Essentially, your boiler’s safety device steps in and shuts down the unit to prevent overheating or wiring damage. In older homes—especially those around GU32 areas—wiring and fuse boards may not be rated for modern power demands.

    Common Causes in Petersfield Homes

    • Outdated Fuse Boards: Older consumer units in Petersfield properties often lack modern mini circuit breakers (MCBs) capable of handling high loads.
    • Shared Circuits: If your boiler shares a ring main with kettles or shower pumps, a simultaneous draw can trip the breaker.
    • Faulty PCB (Printed Circuit Board): Internal faults on the PCB can mimic overload symptoms by shutting down under slightly increased draw.
    • Loose or Damaged Wiring: Vibrations, pests or corrosion can loosen connections and raise circuit resistance, tripping safety devices at lower loads.
    • Under-Sized Circuit Breakers: Some installations, particularly in nearby Bordon (GU35) or Farnham (GU30), use breakers rated too low for combined boiler and immersion heater loads.

    Troubleshooting Your Boiler When It Keeps Tripping

    Before calling in a Gas Safe engineer, there are a few safe checks you can perform:

    • Reset the Boiler: Locate the reset button and hold for 3–5 seconds. If it trips again immediately, there’s a persistent fault.
    • Check Your MCBs: Inspect the mains consumer unit. If the MCB for the boiler or immersion heater has flipped, reset it. If it won’t stay on, turn off all high-draw appliances and try again.
    • Isolate Other Loads: Switch off kettles, washing machines or showers on the same circuit. Then restart the boiler to see if it holds.
    • Inspect External Fuse Boxes: Some Petersfield homes have external fuses near gas meters. A blown fuse here can indicate an overload upstream.
    • Visual Wiring Check: Look for scorch marks, frayed cables or loose connections at terminals. Never tamper with live wiring—just note any issues for your engineer.

    If these steps don’t solve the problem, it’s time to call a qualified Gas Safe engineer. They’ll have specialised equipment to test current draw, PCB integrity and insulation resistance safely.

    Preventing Future Electrical Overloads

    Once your boiler is back up and running, consider these long-term solutions to reduce trip risks:

    • Upgrade Your Consumer Unit: Replace old fuse boards with modern units featuring dedicated MCBs and residual current devices (RCDs).
    • Install a Dedicated Boiler Circuit: Having its own radial circuit with a correctly rated breaker prevents competition for power.
    • Schedule Regular boiler servicing: A routine service helps spot worn components, loose wiring and inefficiencies before they lead to trips.
    • Balance Your Radiators: In multi-zone systems, balancing radiators ensures no single part of the system is overworked.
    • Use Smart Controls: Programmable thermostats and load-shedding devices can stagger heating and hot-water requests during peak times.

    When a New Boiler Installation Might Be the Best Option

    If your boiler is over 10 years old, suffers frequent electrical faults or struggles to keep up with modern heating demands—especially in larger Petersfield homes—it may be more cost-effective to invest in a new boiler installation. Newer condensing boilers are designed with intelligent electronics that manage power draw more efficiently and reduce trip risks.

    Is Boiler Cover Worth It?

    Unexpected shutdowns and wiring faults can be expensive to diagnose and repair. A comprehensive boiler cover plan can spread the cost of repairs, replace parts like PCBs or pumps, and provide priority call-outs for heating breakdowns. For homeowners in Liphook, Alton or Haslemere, this peace of mind is invaluable during winter months.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q: My boiler trips only when I use the shower. What could be causing it?

    A: Showers often draw power for pumps or electric elements. If on a shared circuit, the combined load with your boiler can exceed the breaker rating. Consider a dedicated radial circuit for your boiler or shower.

    Q: Can a simple fuse replacement fix frequent trips?

    A: Replacing a blown fuse might get your boiler running temporarily, but it won’t address underlying overloads. Have an electrician or Gas Safe engineer assess circuit capacity and wiring integrity.

    Q: How often should I service my boiler to prevent electrical faults?

    A: Annual boiler servicing is recommended. This helps spot early signs of wiring wear, PCB corrosion or earth-leakage faults before they cause trips.

    Q: Can I upgrade my fuse board myself?

    A: No. Upgrading consumer units involves live electrical work and must be carried out by a qualified electrician to comply with UK wiring regulations.

    If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Bordon, Alton, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.

  • Why Your Boiler Ignites Then Cuts Out Quickly: A Homeowner’s Guide

    When your boiler ignites normally but cuts out within seconds, it can be frustrating and worrying, especially during colder weather. Homeowners in areas like Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Farnham, Alton and across GU35, GU34 and GU9 often experience this pattern during periods of heavy boiler use. This guide explains what typically causes the issue, the safe checks you can perform, and when it’s time to call a Gas Safe engineer.

    What it means when your boiler ignites then cuts out

    A boiler that lights briefly but shuts itself down is almost always doing so for safety reasons. Modern boilers constantly monitor temperature, pressure, flame quality and internal airflow. If something seems wrong, the boiler prevents continued operation to avoid damage.

    Quick checks you can do now

    Before assuming a major fault, there are a few simple homeowner‑friendly checks you can try. These don’t require tools and are safe for most people to carry out.

    • Check your thermostat settings and ensure the heating demand is actually on.
    • Confirm your boiler hasn’t been accidentally set to hot-water-only mode.
    • Verify that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar when cold.
    • Reset the boiler once and wait a full minute to see if the fault reoccurs.
    • Listen for unusual noises such as gurgling or rapid clicking.

    If the boiler still ignites then switches off quickly, one of the causes below may apply.

    Common reasons a boiler cuts out after ignition

    Several technical issues can trigger the pattern where the boiler cuts out shortly after firing. While most require a professional to fix, understanding them helps you diagnose the severity.

    • Low water pressure – If the system lacks sufficient pressure, the boiler cannot safely circulate water, so it shuts down quickly.
    • Air in the system – Radiators full of air or partially blocked pipework can prevent hot water from moving, causing rapid overheating.
    • Faulty pump – If the pump isn’t circulating water, the boiler overheats within seconds and locks out.
    • Blocked or sludged heat exchanger – Common in older systems, restricting water flow and triggering safety sensors.
    • Flame detection problems – If the sensor can’t confirm a stable flame, the boiler extinguishes for safety.
    • Faulty thermistors – These temperature sensors may give incorrect readings, causing premature shutdown.
    • Condensate blockage – In cold weather, the condensate pipe can freeze, interrupting ignition cycles.

    Focus on the issue: why a boiler cuts out so quickly

    Your boiler’s internal safety logic decides whether to continue heating based on temperature, flame stability and water flow. When the boiler cuts out just after firing, it usually points to either an overheating problem or a flame irregularity. In homes across Bordon, Farnham and surrounding towns, we see this most commonly in systems overdue for servicing or properties with older radiators that have begun to sludge up.

    How to safely top up pressure

    If your system pressure is low, topping it up may temporarily restore normal function. Only do this if you feel confident and your boiler has a filling loop visible underneath. Typical steps include:

    • Turn off heating.
    • Locate the filling loop valves.
    • Open them slowly until the gauge reaches about 1.2 bar.
    • Close valves firmly.

    If pressure keeps dropping, you may have a leak or expansion vessel issue, which requires a Gas Safe engineer.

    Checklist: signs you need an engineer

    Use this quick checklist if you’re unsure whether the fault is simple or more serious:

    • The boiler cuts out repeatedly even after a reset.
    • Pressure rises rapidly after topping up.
    • You hear kettling, banging or gurgling noises.
    • The radiators remain cold even though the boiler fires.
    • You can smell gas or suspect a flue issue (stop immediately and seek help).

    Any of these symptoms indicate a component fault that requires professional diagnosis.

    Can you prevent this problem happening again?

    Yes. Prevention mainly involves good system maintenance. Annual servicing, especially for homes in areas like Whitehill, Liphook, Alton and Farnham, keeps pumps, sensors and heat exchangers clean and working efficiently. Powerflushing older systems also helps keep water circulating freely and reduces strain on the boiler.

    Next steps if your boiler still cuts out

    If your boiler continues to ignite then switch off quickly, the safest solution is to have it assessed by a qualified Gas Safe engineer. For friendly expert help, contact us on (01420) 558993.

  • Ofgem Energy Price Cap Up 13% From July 2026: What It Means for Your Heating Bills in Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham & Haslemere

    The key story this week: the price cap is rising again — and gas is the driver

    Ofgem has announced a 13% increase in the energy price cap for the period 1 July to 30 September 2026. For a “typical” dual-fuel household paying by direct debit, the capped annualised figure moves from £1,641 to £1,862.

    It’s important to be clear about what this does (and doesn’t) mean. The price cap is not a cap on your total bill — it limits the unit rates (price per kWh) and standing charges suppliers can charge on standard variable tariffs and default tariffs. Your actual cost depends on how much gas and electricity you use. If you use more, you pay more — and when gas becomes more expensive at wholesale level, home heating is usually where households feel it most.

    Why it matters: most UK homes heat with gas, and boilers turn kWh into comfort

    Across the UK, gas remains the dominant heating fuel for homes. In practical terms, this Ofgem update isn’t just “an energy story” — it’s a heating cost story. Even if you are careful with electricity, a winter boiler that runs for hours a day can burn through thousands of kilowatt-hours of gas.

    Here in Hampshire and Surrey, we see the same pattern in homes across Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere: if the property is older, a bit draughty, or has an aging boiler and basic controls, a rise in gas costs gets amplified because you need more gas to maintain comfort. The cap increase landing in July might feel like “summer news”, but it sets the tone for the next heating season — and the households that get ahead now tend to avoid the biggest shocks later.

    What happened behind the scenes: the cap moves because wholesale gas moved

    Ofgem has pointed to higher wholesale gas costs as a key reason for the increase. Wholesale pricing is influenced by a mix of factors — global supply and demand, storage levels, infrastructure constraints, geopolitical uncertainty and seasonal expectations. The main point for homeowners is straightforward: even if your boiler is working perfectly, the price for each unit of gas it consumes can rise sharply when markets tighten.

    Ofgem then allocates costs across different parts of the cap (wholesale energy, networks, policy costs, operating costs, and so on). But from a household perspective there are only three levers that really matter:

    • Unit rate (what you pay per kWh)
    • Standing charge (what you pay per day regardless of usage)
    • Usage (how many kWh your home actually consumes)

    You can’t control the first two directly (except by switching tariff/supplier), but you can control usage — and that’s where heating engineering, boiler setup, controls and insulation make a measurable difference.

    What it means technically: efficiency, flow temperature and controls become “money settings”

    When gas prices rise, boiler efficiency stops being an abstract percentage and becomes a real-world cost on your monthly direct debit. Here’s what to understand in plain English.

    1) A boiler’s “efficiency” changes with how it’s run

    Modern condensing boilers are most efficient when they can recover extra heat from the flue gases — that’s the “condensing” part. To do this reliably, your system needs to run at lower return temperatures. The practical adjustment that often unlocks this is reducing the boiler flow temperature (the temperature of the water leaving the boiler to your radiators).

    Many systems are set unnecessarily high (often 70–80°C) because it “feels” like it heats faster. In reality, if your radiators are correctly sized and your home isn’t haemorrhaging heat, you can often run lower (commonly around the mid-50s for many homes) and still stay comfortable — while the boiler spends more time in efficient condensing mode.

    Why it matters under a higher price cap: if your boiler is 5–10% less efficient than it could be due to settings, that’s 5–10% more gas purchased at the new higher unit rates.

    2) Heating controls are not optional — they’re the gearbox

    Homes around Liphook, Haslemere and Farnham often have a mix of extensions, converted lofts, or rooms used differently across the week. If you’re heating the whole house to one temperature all day, you’re paying to heat rooms you’re not using.

    Good controls typically include:

    • A programmable room thermostat (so heat runs when you actually need it)
    • Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) to reduce overheating in spare rooms
    • Boiler interlock so the boiler stops firing when conditions are met
    • Weather compensation or load compensation (where supported) to prevent overshoot and reduce cycling

    Under a rising cap, controls can deliver savings because they reduce wasted runtime — and wasted runtime is “wasted kWh”.

    3) Short cycling and imbalance quietly raise bills

    If your boiler fires for short bursts, turns off, then fires again repeatedly, it’s often operating inefficiently. Causes can include incorrect settings, poor system balance, an oversized boiler, or issues in the distribution side (radiators not balanced, pump problems, system sludge restricting flow).

    A system that’s out of balance tends to overheat some rooms and underheat others. People then turn the thermostat up to compensate, which increases overall consumption. In areas like Bordon and Whitehill where homes can vary hugely (from newer builds to older housing), balancing is one of the most overlooked “engineering fixes” with a direct financial payoff.

    What it means financially: your bill is capped per unit, not capped in total

    The headline numbers are useful for scale, but your home’s cost is personal. Two households on the same street in Alton can sit under the same cap and still have bills hundreds of pounds apart because of insulation levels, occupancy, work-from-home patterns, hot water habits and boiler efficiency.

    So what should you do with the information that the cap rises to an annualised £1,862 for a typical dual-fuel direct debit household?

    • Assume unit rates are higher from July, and that winter rates could move again.
    • Focus on reducing kWh — especially gas kWh — because that’s where the biggest volumes are in winter.
    • Stop paying for avoidable inefficiency (high flow temps, uncontrolled schedules, sludge-restricted heating, dripping hot taps, over-hot cylinders).

    Even small percentage improvements matter when prices jump. If your home uses, say, 12,000 kWh of gas per year (not unusual for a typical property with a gas boiler), then shaving 10% off usage is roughly 1,200 kWh saved — and that saving becomes more valuable when each unit costs more.

    What it means locally: housing mix and micro-climates across our patch

    National policy is one thing; how it lands locally is another. The homes we see day-to-day across Bordon, Whitehill, Liphook, Alton, Farnham and Haslemere tend to fall into a few broad categories, each with its own “best next step”.

    Older, character homes (common around Farnham and Haslemere)

    Solid walls, suspended floors, older glazing or partial upgrades. These properties often feel cold quickly once heating is off. The best savings usually come from keeping heat in (draught sealing, insulation upgrades where appropriate) and ensuring the boiler and radiators can run efficiently at lower temperatures.

    Practical focus: balance the system, set sensible flow temperatures, and check for radiator output vs room heat loss — sometimes one or two upgraded radiators can allow lower flow temps across the home.

    Newer or estates housing (more common in parts of Bordon/Whitehill)

    These homes can be better insulated but still waste money through default boiler settings and basic controls. It’s common to find systems that are technically capable of high efficiency but are left in “factory” conditions.

    Practical focus: review controls, run lower flow temps, and confirm the boiler is properly commissioned with correct modulation and a clean system water path.

    Mixed-use homes and commuter patterns (Liphook, Alton and surrounding villages)

    If occupancy varies day-to-day, schedules matter. Many households heat the home like someone’s always in — but if you’re out three days a week, you’re buying heat you don’t enjoy.

    Practical focus: upgrade to a smart thermostat or at least refine schedules, use zoning/TRVs, and set hot water times tightly rather than leaving cylinders on “all day”.

    What homeowners should do next (before July, and before the next heating season)

    If you only react when it gets cold, you tend to spend more — because you make rushed decisions, accept emergency work, and run systems inefficiently all winter. The cap rise is a timely prompt to get your house “heating fit”.

    Step 1: Check your tariff status and options (today)

    Find out whether you’re on a standard variable/default tariff that tracks the cap. If you are, compare what fixed tariffs are available — not because fixing is always best, but because it’s the only way to reduce exposure to further cap changes over the next few months.

    Also check your payment method: direct debit, standard credit and prepayment all have capped levels that can differ. Knowing where you sit helps you make sensible comparisons.

    Step 2: Reduce boiler flow temperature if appropriate (this week)

    If you have a condensing boiler and radiators, consider reducing the central heating flow temperature in small steps and observing comfort over several days. This is not about making the house colder; it’s about letting the boiler run longer and steadier, staying in condensing mode more often.

    Important: hot water cylinder temperatures and hot water safety are separate from radiator flow temperature on many systems. If you’re unsure, get professional advice rather than guessing.

    Step 3: Make sure your controls actually control (this month)

    Confirm you have:

    • A thermostat that turns the boiler off when the target temperature is reached
    • Programmes that reflect when you’re home (weekday vs weekend)
    • TRVs that aren’t all set to maximum as a default

    Many “high bills” are just “long run hours”. Tightening schedules and preventing overheating can cut those hours without sacrificing comfort.

    Step 4: Book a boiler service before the autumn rush (summer is ideal)

    A proper service helps confirm safe combustion, correct operation and reliability. It’s also the best time to spot issues that quietly increase costs: fans struggling, poor ignition, incorrect gas rates, blocked condensate, or signs of heat exchanger fouling (where accessible/appropriate).

    In our area, once the first cold snap hits, diaries fill fast across Farnham, Alton and Haslemere. A summer service is usually quicker to schedule and reduces the risk of a breakdown when energy prices are already biting.

    Step 5: If some radiators are slow or noisy, consider a system clean and balance

    Cold patches on radiators, kettling noises, frequent top-ups to pressure, or certain rooms never getting warm are all signs your system may be underperforming. A heating system is like a circulatory system — if flow is restricted, the boiler can’t deliver heat efficiently.

    A full diagnosis may include checking inhibitor levels, magnetic filter condition, radiator balance, and whether a powerflush or targeted clean is justified. Done correctly, you’re not just chasing comfort; you’re reducing the amount of gas needed to achieve it.

    The bigger picture: volatility rewards efficient homes

    The uncomfortable truth behind this week’s update is that price cap movements are a symptom of market volatility — and volatile markets punish waste. If your home needs lots of kWh to stay warm, your costs can jump rapidly. If your home is tight, well-controlled and running an efficient heating setup, you’re far more insulated (no pun intended) from swings in unit rates.

    This is why we tend to talk about boilers, controls and insulation together. A new boiler alone won’t fix a poorly controlled or badly balanced system. Likewise, great insulation with an incorrectly set boiler can still waste money. When prices rise, the “whole system” approach pays.

    If you’d like us to sanity-check your boiler settings, controls, or the overall efficiency of your heating system ahead of the next season, book a visit with Embassy Gas: https://www.embassygas.com/book | helpdesk@embassygas.com | (01420) 558993

  • Radiators Heat But Pipes Stay Cold? Identifying Pump Flow Issues in Haslemere

    Your Radiators Are Hot But Pipes Remain Cold: What’s Happening in Haslemere?

    If you live in Haslemere and have noticed that your radiators are piping hot but the connecting pipes stay cold, you’re not alone. This frustrating situation often points to a pump flow issue in your central heating system. Whether you’re in Haslemere town centre or out towards Hindhead, understanding why your radiators won’t circulate heat properly can save you time, discomfort, and expensive call-outs.

    How Central Heating Pumps Should Circulate Water

    Your central heating pump pushes warm water from the boiler around the pipework to radiators in each room. When everything works correctly, pipes, radiators and valves all reach your chosen temperature setting. In homes across Farnham, Liphook and Bordon (GU35), a healthy pump flow ensures even heat distribution and optimal efficiency. If the pump can’t overcome resistance in the loop, water may bypass sections, leaving radiators hot near the boiler but pipes and remote radiators cold.

    Common Causes of Pump Flow Problems

    Several issues can interrupt pump flow in Haslemere properties, including:

    • Debris or sludge buildup can seize the impeller, restricting flow.
    • Airlocks: Trapped air pockets block water circulation, often after maintenance or system draining.
    • Diverter Valve Faults: A malfunctioning valve in a combi boiler might send hot water to taps instead of radiators.
    • Pump Speed Settings: Incorrect speed settings on older or manual pumps can reduce flow rate.
    • System Imbalance: Poorly balanced radiators create uneven flow, causing some pipes to stay cold.

    Sludge and Debris Blockages

    Over time, corrosion by-products in steel radiators form black sludge, collecting in low spots like pump chambers. If left untreated, this sludge stops the impeller from turning freely. A power flush or installing a filter can remove these deposits.

    Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide

    Before calling in expert help, try these DIY checks:

    • Check Pump Settings: Modern pumps often have speed selectors. Ensure yours isn’t set to low. If adjustable, step it up one notch and see if circulation improves.
    • Bleed Radiators: Airlocks can prevent flow. Using a bleed key, release trapped air from radiators, starting with the lowest on the system.
    • Listen to the Pump: A humming motor indicates power but a seized impeller. If you hear no hum, the pump may lack power or be dead.
    • Inspect Diverter Valve: In combi boilers, wasteful hot water diversion to taps can starve radiators. Listen for valve operation noises when switching between heating and hot water.
    • Balance the System: Use lockshield valves to balance radiator flow. Slightly close valves on radiators near the boiler to push more flow to distant units.

    When to Call a Gas Safe Engineer

    If troubleshooting doesn’t restore flow, it’s time to call a qualified Gas Safe engineer. In Haslemere, Petersfield (GU34) and Liss, local engineers can safely inspect and repair:

    • Pump replacement or repair.
    • Diverter valve repairs on combi boilers.
    • Wiring and power supply faults.
    • System flushing and chemical treatment.

    Tackling these tasks unaided can risk damaging components or breaching safety regulations. A certified professional ensures your system operates safely and efficiently.

    Permanent Fixes and Upgrades

    Depending on your system’s age and condition, permanent solutions may include:

    • Replacing the Boiler Pump: Installing a modern, energy-efficient pump reduces noise, improves control and increases flow rate.
    • Power Flushing: A full system flush removes sludge and debris, restoring optimal flow to every radiator.
    • Adding a Magnetic Filter: Captures metal particles before they reach the pump, protecting new components.
    • Considering a new boiler installation with integrated pump controls if your existing boiler is over 10 years old.

    Preventative Maintenance to Avoid Future Flow Problems

    Regular maintenance is key to preventing pump flow issues. In Haslemere and surrounding villages, homeowners trust routine checks to keep systems running smoothly:

    • Annual boiler servicing by a Gas Safe engineer to identify worn parts and adjust pump settings.
    • System treatment with inhibitor chemicals to minimise corrosion.
    • Upgrading to a comprehensive boiler cover plan that includes pump inspections and emergency callouts.

    By investing in your central heating’s health, you ensure dependable warmth all winter.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Why are my radiators hot but the pipes are cold?

    This usually indicates the pump isn’t circulating water beyond the first radiator or that an airlock is blocking flow. Check your pump speed, bleed radiators and balance the system.

    Can I fix a seized pump impeller myself?

    Seized impellers often require partial disassembly and chemical treatment or replacement—tasks best left to your local Gas Safe engineer.

    How much does a pump replacement cost?

    Costs vary by pump type and installation complexity, but most homeowners in Bordon and Petersfield see prices from £150–£300, including labour.

    Is power flushing really necessary?

    If you have persistent sludge buildup, a one-off power flush can restore flow to all radiators and protect new pump or boiler components.

    If you need help with your heating or boiler, our local engineers are here to help. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online at embassygas.com/book.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Haslemere, Farnham, Liphook, Petersfield and surrounding areas.

  • Dealing with a Boiler Leak at the Pressure Relief Valve in Grayshott

    Understanding Pressure Relief Valve Discharge in Grayshott Homes

    If you’ve noticed water dripping from your boiler’s pressure relief valve (PRV), you’re not alone. In Grayshott, many homeowners face similar leaks caused by overpressure, worn components or system faults. This guide covers why PRV discharge happens, how to troubleshoot safely and when to seek help from a qualified Gas Safe engineer.

    What Is the Pressure Relief Valve?

    The PRV is a safety device designed to release excess water and reduce pressure within your central heating system. It’s usually located on the side of the boiler and connects to a small pipe that carries discharged water away. When the internal pressure rises above a set limit, the PRV opens to prevent damage to your boiler and pipework.

    Common Causes of PRV Leaks

    Understanding the root cause can help you decide whether you can remedy the issue yourself or need professional support. Common reasons for a boiler leaking near the pressure valve include:

    • System Overpressure: Too much water in the system can push pressure beyond the safe limit, triggering the PRV.
    • Faulty Expansion Vessel: A worn or waterlogged expansion vessel can’t absorb pressure fluctuations, shifting the load onto the PRV.
    • Scale or Debris: Mineral deposits or sludge can block internal components, causing erratic pressure spikes.
    • Aged Valve Seals: Over time, seals wear out and allow water to escape past the valve seat.

    Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

    Before calling for a boiler servicing visit, you can perform a few safe checks:

    • Check the Pressure Gauge: Note the current system pressure on the boiler gauge. Normal readings are between 1 and 1.5 bar when cold.
    • Inspect the Expansion Vessel: Tap the metal casing gently. A hollow sound indicates an air charge; a dull note suggests trapped water.
    • Bleed Radiators: Air pockets can raise pressure. Bleed each radiator until water flows smoothly.
    • Examine Filling Loop: Ensure the filling loop is fully closed after topping up the system. A partially open valve can cause overpressure.
    • Look for Blockages: Check the discharge pipe runs freely outside or to a drain—no kinks or frozen sections.

    Can You Fix a Leaking PRV Yourself?

    While basic checks are safe, replacing or repairing a PRV requires technical skill and must comply with Gas Safe regulations. Only a Gas Safe engineer should carry out these tasks. Tampering with safety components can lead to dangerous faults or invalidate your warranty.

    When to Consider a New Boiler Installation

    If your system is older than 10–15 years and faces recurring pressure issues, it might be more cost-effective to invest in a modern, efficient boiler. For advice on new boiler installation, our team can assess your home’s heating demands and recommend the best upgrade.

    Preventing Future PRV Discharge

    Regular maintenance keeps your boiler running safely and efficiently. Here’s how to avoid future leaks:

    • Annual Servicing: Booking a professional service helps spot worn parts early. Book your boiler service before winter arrives to ensure peace of mind.
    • System Flush: A powerflush removes sludge and scale that may lead to pressure fluctuations.
    • Check Pressure Monthly: Make a habit of monitoring the pressure gauge to catch issues before they escalate.
    • Invest in Cover: Comprehensive boiler cover plans can reduce repair costs and guarantee fast response times.

    Local Expertise Across Surrey and Hampshire

    Our team serves Grayshott and surrounding communities such as Liphook, Farnham and Bordon (GU35). We also cover Petersfield, ensuring swift response to PRV leaks.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Why is my boiler leaking near the pressure valve?

    This usually signals excess system pressure, a faulty expansion vessel or aged seals on the PRV. Check your pressure gauge and bleed radiators first, but call a Gas Safe engineer for repairs.

    Can I tighten the pressure valve outlet to stop the leak?

    No. The PRV is designed to release pressure automatically. Tampering with the valve can damage your boiler or void warranties.

    How often should I have my boiler serviced?

    We recommend an annual service to maintain efficiency, safety and comply with insurance requirements.

    Need Professional Help?

    If you’re experiencing PRV leaks or any other boiler issues, our Gas Safe engineers are ready to assist. Call us on (01420) 558993 or book online.

    Written by Embassy Gas — your local heating experts covering Grayshott, Liphook, Farnham and surrounding areas.